The Limestone Link: Walking Cumbria’s Hidden Variety from Kirkby Lonsdale to Arnside

Mention walking in Cumbria to almost anyone, and their mind immediately conjures up images of dramatic ribbon lakes, brooding fells, and ancient volcanic stone.

And don’t get me wrong—I love the high peaks of the Lake District as much as anyone.

Sometimes, though, it pays to look right just before you hit the big mountains. Next time you’re heading north up the M6 past Lancaster and Carnforth, glance over to the east and west.

You’ll spot sets of pale, limestone-capped hills and wooded ridges that most drivers simply speed past on their way to Windermere or Keswick.

If you want a fantastic, leg-stretching day hike with a tremendous amount of variety, The Limestone Link is an absolute gem.

Stretching roughly 12.5 to 13 miles (20 km) across the south of Cumbria, this waymarked trail takes you from the historic market town of Kirkby Lonsdale all the way west to the tidal estuary at Arnside.

Instead of steep mountain slogs, you get ancient limestone pavements, rolling green valleys, flat coastal moss, medieval ruins, and secret woodland crags—crossed by the Lancaster Canal, the West Coast Main Line, and the M6 along the way.

Planning the Linear Logistics: Two Ends, One Walk

Because the Limestone Link is a linear trail rather than a circular loop, you’ll need a quick game plan before lacing up your boots.

You can tackle the walk in either direction, though walking East to West (Kirkby Lonsdale to Arnside) is my personal favourite—there is nothing quite like finishing a long day on the trail by resting your feet on Arnside Pier watching the sunset over Morecambe Bay.

The Two-Car Shuffle: The easiest method if you’re walking with friends. Leave one car parked along the promenade or station at Arnside (LA5 0HA), and drive the second car over to the starting point at Devil’s Bridge in Kirkby Lonsdale (LA6 2DF – about a 20-minute drive).

Public Transport (Train + Bus): Arnside has its own railway station right on the Cumbria Coast Line, and Kirkby Lonsdale is served by the Stagecoach 567 bus from Kendal.

Because there isn’t a regular public bus running directly between Arnside and Kirkby Lonsdale (apart from a term-time school service), public transport walkers can take the train between Arnside and Oxenholme/Kendal, and hop on the 567 bus between Kendal and Kirkby Lonsdale.

Local Taxi: Pre-booking a local taxi from Arnside back to Kirkby Lonsdale (or doing it in the morning before you set off) takes less than 20 minutes and saves any timetable stress at the end of the day.

Stage 1: Devil’s Bridge to Hutton Roof Crags

The start of the walk will be very familiar to anyone who has ventured through South Cumbria or the edge of the Yorkshire Dales: Kirkby Lonsdale.

More specifically, the iconic three-arched Devil’s Bridge spanning the River Lune. Famous for its bikers, brew stops, and riverside picnics, it’s a picture-perfect setting to set you on your way.

Heading west from the river and crossing carefully over the A65, you are straight into proper, lush Cumbrian countryside.

For the first few miles of my wander, the only company I came across was sheep, cows, and a couple of watchful bulls.

Between the rolling pastures, you weave past hidden hamlets and duck through untouched pockets of woodland. The variety of this trail starts with a bang.

Crucially, this isn’t a long plod up a heavily trafficked tourist highway where you’re queuing behind hundreds of people.

This is crisp green grass underfoot, clambering over stiles tucked into thick hedgerows, and a proper “find-your-way” countryside walk.

After a few miles of pastoral calm, you reach the quiet village of Hutton Roof—and the signal to start the first real uphill of the day.

Climbing onto Hutton Roof Crags

Now, when I say uphill, don’t think steep mountain pass or lung-busting slog. Far from it.

Climbing steadily up through the greenery, the trees peel back and you emerge onto Hutton Roof Crags and its sweeping, rolling ridge.

Here, the geology that gives the trail its name steals the show. Pale, weathered limestone abounds across the top, forming miniature cliffs, grikes, and fascinating karst formations amongst the gorse and bracken.

This was actually where I bumped into my first fellow humans of the day—a group of teenage weekend adventurers practicing their rock climbing skills on the limestone outcrops.

The view from the ridge is immense. It is yet another textbook example of how you don’t need towering altitude to get a jaw-dropping vista; sometimes an innocent-looking hill delivers an absolute masterclass in scenery.

Looking North: In a single eyeshot, you can take in the high mountains of the Lake District, the sleeping-elephant curves of the Howgill Fells, the start of the Yorkshire Dales, and the sweep of the Lune Valley.

Looking West: You get your very first glimpse of the shimmering expanse of Morecambe Bay—and a visual marker of your finish line out on the coast.

Stage 2: Under the M6 and Across the Lancaster Canal to Holme

With a scenic lunch spot ticked off up on the crags, it’s time to move on, dropping down through peaceful woodland and green limestone pastures towards the valley floor.

Gradually, the birdsong begins to compete with the distant hum and fuss of modern life: the M6 motorway.

It always feels slightly surreal on a country hike to pass directly underneath a roaring six-lane highway, but the beauty of the Limestone Link is how quickly you leave it behind.

Almost immediately after ducking under the motorway, the pace slows right back down as you enter the village of Holme—not before crossing over the Lancaster Canal.

It’s a gorgeous, tranquil spot to pause for five minutes (or even take a longer towpath detour). Glassy water, mirror reflections, and gliding swans couldn’t feel further removed from the motorway traffic just behind you.

From Holme, the path passes over the West Coast Main Line railway and strikes out across rolling fields towards Hale and the A6.

On my walk, rows of ancient hawthorn trees led the way—along with mud that was nearly knee-deep thanks to the combination of trampling cattle and a classic wet British summer!

Honestly, though, it all just adds to the adventure (though gaiters and good waterproof boots never go amiss through this middle valley section).

Stage 3: Ancient Limestone Pavement and the Beetham Fairy Steps

Once you cross the A6 at Hale, the trail tilts upwards again—and yet again, the scenery shifts gear completely.

You wind up through Underlaid Wood, a magical woodland setting threaded with pale stone pathways. In autumn especially, the golden leaves against the grey rock create an incredible atmosphere.

Suddenly, the trees part slightly and a natural “crazy paving” of ancient limestone pavement opens up right in front of you.

You find yourself hopping and stepping carefully across small fissures and cracks in the prehistoric stone before arriving at one of South Cumbria’s best-kept secrets: the Fairy Steps.

Tucked into the crag near Beetham, the Fairy Steps are a set of natural and worn stone steps wedged inside a remarkably narrow vertical crack between two limestone cliff faces. It’s a fun, short scramble down—and steeped in local folklore:

The Legend of the Fairy Steps: Local legend says that if you can climb or descend the steps without touching the limestone walls on either side, a fairy will appear and grant you a wish. Take it from me: it is nigh-on impossible to do—and not just because of a belly!

Beyond the folklore, these steps have a fascinating history. They formed part of an ancient coffin route, used when the deceased of Arnside had to be carried all the way over the hill to the parish church at St Michael’s in Beetham.

When you stand in front of that narrow gap with your own eyes, you will genuinely wonder how on earth they managed to haul coffins through it with any grace at all!

Stage 4: Hazelslack Tower, Arnside Moss, and the Sunset Finish

Descending from the woodland below the Fairy Steps, you hit the home stretch—and the trail still refuses to run out of things to show you.

Emerging from the treeline, your way is marked by the atmospheric, ivy-clad ruins of Hazelslack Tower, a 14th-century pele tower built to defend against Border Reivers.

From here, the landscape flattens out into the wide, green expanse of Arnside Moss, with only two miles left on the clock and the salt air of the coast beginning to greet you.

Eventually, you step back into civilization as you enter Arnside itself. If you’ve timed your walk to finish in the late afternoon or early evening, you are in for a treat.

Arnside at sunset is a very, very special place. Grab some fish and chips on the front, rest your well-worked feet on Arnside Pier out over the Kent Estuary, and watch the light fade across the sands of Morecambe Bay towards the Lakeland fells you spotted hours ago from Hutton Roof.

The daylight might be disappearing, but the sights and memories from a day on the Limestone Link take a long time to fade.

Frequently Asked Questions