St John’s Co-Cathedral: A Masterpiece in the Heart of Malta

Whenever I travel to Malta, the sun, the food, and the coastal views are usually top of the agenda.

But if you take a walk through the capital city of Valletta, there is one place you absolutely must carve out time for: the magnificent St John’s Co-Cathedral.

From the outside, you might walk right past it. The 16th-century exterior built by the Knights of Malta is deliberately unassuming and fortress-like.

But let me tell you, the moment you step through those grand doors, your jaw will hit the floor. It is a world of pure, unadulterated opulence.

Beating the Cruise Ship Crowds

Valletta is a massive, bustling port, and this cathedral is the number one excursion for thousands of cruise ship passengers. To experience the sanctuary at its most peaceful, timing is everything.

I highly recommend visiting either right as the doors open at 9:00 AM, or later in the afternoon around 3:00 PM once the large tour groups have headed back to their ships. (Just keep in mind that the last entry is usually at 4:00 PM).

Allow yourself a good 1.5 to 2 hours so you don’t have to rush.

Stepping Inside: Baroque Grandeur and Gold

The interior of the cathedral is one of the finest examples of high Baroque architecture in the world.

Every single inch seems to be covered in ornate marble, elaborate gilded gold, and richly decorated vaulted ceilings.

Even the floor beneath your feet is a masterpiece.

It is covered in nearly 400 intricately patterned marble tombstones, each one representing a different knight or dignitary of the Order. (This is exactly why they enforce that famous “no stilettos” rule!).

Photography Rules (And How to Get the Best Shots)

As a keen photographer, I spent ages just trying to capture the sheer scale of the detail in the main nave. The lighting can be tricky, so a wide-angle lens on your smartphone or a fast lens on your camera is your best bet.

However, you must be aware of the rules: flash photography is strictly banned everywhere inside the cathedral.

Furthermore, in the Oratory (where the most famous artworks live), photography and videography of any kind are completely prohibited.

Sometimes, it’s nice to just put the camera down and take it all in anyway.

The Caravaggio Masterpieces

If you are an art lover, the Oratory is your holy grail. St John’s Co-Cathedral is home to the works of the infamous Italian artist, Caravaggio.

Here you will find his most famous painting: The Beheading of Saint John the Baptist. It is the only painting Caravaggio ever signed (you can spot his signature in the blood spilling from St John’s neck).

The sheer size of the canvas, combined with his legendary use of light and shadow, makes it an incredibly powerful, moving piece to stand in front of. In the same room, you’ll also find his mesmerizing St Jerome Writing.

Exploring the Chapels and the Grand Masters’ Crypt

The main nave is spectacular, but make sure you take the time to explore the eight chapels that line the sides.

Each chapel was dedicated to a different “Langue” (or language group) of the Knights Hospitaller.

From the ornate details of the Chapel of Aragon to the quieter simplicity of the Chapel of Germany, each one has its own distinct character.

Down in the crypt lies the Grand Masters’ Tomb. It is a solemn, quiet space away from the main crowds, serving as the final resting place for the men who shaped Malta’s history and defended the island during the Great Siege of 1565.

What to Do Next in Malta

There are many coastal hikes and sunny beaches to enjoy in Malta, but there is something deeply restorative about stepping out of the Mediterranean heat and into the cool, tranquil sanctuary of St John’s.

Once you step back out into the Valletta sunshine, I highly recommend taking a short stroll over to the Upper Barrakka Gardens for incredible views across the Grand Harbour.

Or, if you have a craving for something sweet, jump on a bus inland to the ancient silent city of Mdina and grab a slice of the famous cake at the Fontanella Tea Garden.