Malta – Marsaxlokk, The Colourful Fishing Village

It was approaching lunchtime on the sun-soaked island of Malta, the sun was high in a cloudless blue sky, and it was time to head down to the south-east coast for Marsaxlokk—easily the most colourful traditional fishing village on the islands.

Whenever I travel to Malta, I always make it a personal mission to head down here for a long, unhurried lunch.

There is honestly nothing quite like sitting out in the warm Mediterranean sunshine right by the water’s edge, watching hundreds of brightly painted wooden boats bobbing on the bay while tucking into the morning’s fresh catch of the day.

Immediately upon arriving at the waterfront (the Xatt is-Sajjieda), you are struck by the sheer vibrancy of the place.

Between the shimmering turquoise of the sheltered bay, the kaleidoscope of local Luzzu fishing boats, and the honey-coloured limestone buildings lining the promenade behind the harbour, it is a feast for the eyes long before your food even arrives.

The Luzzu Fishing Boats & The Eyes of Horus

The very first thing that stops you in your tracks when you step onto the Marsaxlokk quayside is the sheer number of small, impeccably painted wooden boats scattered right across the water.

These traditional Maltese fishing vessels are known as Luzzu (alongside their slightly sleeker cousins, the Kajjik).

Walk the length of the harbour and you will see hundreds of them moored up, each painted with real pride in bold, glossy shades of yellow, red, royal blue, and bright green.

Look closely at the bow of almost every Luzzu and you will spot a striking pair of sculpted or painted eyes staring right back at you.

These are the Eyes of Horus (or Osiris)—a protective maritime tradition passed down across the Mediterranean since the days of the ancient Phoenicians nearly 3,000 years ago.

Historically, Maltese fishermen believed these watchful eyes gave the boat its own spirit, warding off evil and guiding the crew safely back to harbour through rough seas.

Even the colours used on the hull once carried local meaning: a black strip painted near the base could signify a family mourning a lost fisherman, while specific shades originally identified which village a boat sailed from.

Today, Marsaxlokk remains home to the largest working fishing fleet in Malta, landing around 70% of the island’s fresh sea catch.

The Marsaxlokk Fish Market & Waterfront Lunch

As you stroll along the curving promenade, you have the turquoise harbour and gently rocking Luzzu boats on one side, and the bustling Marsaxlokk Market stretching along the quayside on the other.

While Sunday morning is famous across the island for the full-scale fish market—when locals and visitors descend on the bay at dawn to inspect crates of fresh seafood straight off the trawlers—there is a lively waterfront market operating throughout the week too.

Here, the stalls are brimming with Maltese lace, woven goods, and vibrant souvenirs adorned with the exact same primary colours and painted-eye motifs as the boats out on the water.

Tucked in amongst the local honey, prickly pear liqueur, capers, sun-ripened fruit, and leather stalls are the real stars of the show: the fresh fish counters.

If there is one dish Marsaxlokk is famous for above all else, it is Lampuki (known elsewhere as dorado or mahi-mahi). Every autumn—usually from late August through to December—migrating shoals of Lampuki pass the Maltese islands, and the fishermen head out using traditional floating palm fronds to shade and attract the fish.

Whether it is served grilled whole with capers and tomatoes or baked into a traditional Maltese Lampuki Pie, it is unbeatable.

Alongside Lampuki, the ice beds are piled high with fresh swordfish steaks, Mediterranean tuna, sea bream, red prawns, and local octopus.

You don’t need to take raw fish home in a carrier bag to enjoy it, of course! Lining the waterfront directly behind the market stalls are dozens of family-run seafood restaurants with open-air terraces right by the water.

It is comfortably one of my favourite lunch spots anywhere in Malta.

Pulling up a chair in the sun with a cold drink, a plate of grilled swordfish and Lampuki, and uninterrupted views across that harbour of painted boats is pure Mediterranean bliss.

And once you have polished off a good feast, the wide, flat promenade is the ideal spot to wander slowly along the water’s edge or grab a bench and watch the fishermen mending their nets.

Beyond the Harbour: The Buildings & Sanctuary of Marsaxlokk

Wander more, see more! Whenever I visit a coastal spot like this, I always urge people to peel themselves away from the restaurant tables for half an hour and explore the quiet backstreets behind the seafront.

Away from the bustle of the market stalls, the traditional golden-stone town houses—complete with classic painted Maltese wooden balconies (gallariji)—add another layer of character and colour to the village.

One landmark stands head and shoulders above the rest, anchoring the main square right at the heart of the bay: the Sanctuary of Our Lady of Pompei (Marsaxlokk Parish Church).

This twin-spired Roman Catholic church has a brilliant maritime origin story tied directly to the sea. It was built in the late 19th century (started in 1890) thanks to Marchesa Rosalia Apap Viani Testaferrata.

After she was caught in a violent storm out at sea and her life was saved by a brave local Marsaxlokk fisherman, she fulfilled a solemn vow to fund and build this church for the village’s fishing community.

Inside the red-and-white domed interior, you can even spot a model of a traditional Luzzu boat!

Everywhere you look around the square and side alleys, there are ornate limestone carvings, religious corner niches and statues painted in bright colours, and quiet sun-bleached courtyards.

Marsaxlokk is so much more than just sun, sea, and seafood—taking an hour to explore the village on foot is the best excuse going to walk off a two-course harbour lunch.