I grew up with the outline of the Pennines etched into my horizon. Being an Oldham lad, Dove Stone Reservoir wasn’t just a “beauty spot” to me—it was the backyard.
It was where I spent many childhood weekend days, and years later, it became my training ground.
I even lived by it when I was preparing for the big climbs of Kilimanjaro and Aconcagua, it was these very hills—the grind up to Chew Reservoir or the jagged edge of the Raven Stones—that hardened my legs.
Today, Dove Stone is rightfully known as the “Gateway to the Peak District.” It sits right on the edge of Oldham and Greater Manchester, nestled below the brooding gritstone cliffs of the Dark Peak.
It is spectacular in any season. I’ve seen it mirroring a perfect blue summer sky, and I’ve seen it disappearing into a mist so thick you can barely see your boots. But let’s be honest: its secret is out. It doesn’t do “quiet” like it used to.
If you’re planning a visit, you need more than just pretty pictures—you need a strategy. Here is my guide to enjoying this Saddleworth gem without the stress.
Getting There (The “Parking Reality” Check)
I cannot stress this enough: Dove Stone is popular. On a sunny Bank Holiday, it isn’t just busy; it’s a blockade.
The Main Car Park (Bank Lane, OL3 7NE) This is the main hub. It has the toilets and direct access to the path.
- The Cost: It’s Pay & Display (approx. £4.00 for the day but cheaper prices for shorter times). The machines take cards, but signal in the valley can be dodgy, so I always keep a stash of coins in the glovebox just in case.
- The “Golden Hour”: If you arrive after 9:30 AM on a nice weekend, you are likely too late.
- RSPB Members: If you are a member, stick your card on the dashboard—parking is free. It’s a nice perk that pays for the membership if you visit a few times a year.
The Binn Green Alternative Further up the A635 (Holmfirth Road) is the Binn Green car park. It’s often quieter and gets you closer to the wilder upper paths.
- Warning: The toilets at Binn Green are permanently closed. Do not get caught out!
My Top Tip: Ditch the Car If you want to avoid the parking headache entirely, jump on the 350 Bee Network bus. It runs from Ashton/Oldham and stops right at The Clarence Hotel in Greenfield.
From there, it’s a stiff but manageable 1-mile walk up the road to the reservoir. Plus, you finish your walk at a pub. Win-win.
Note on Parking Fines: Do not be tempted to park on the grass verges or double yellows on the main road. The council patrols this area ruthlessly with “Clearway” orders, and a £70 fine will definitely ruin your day out.
The Main Circuit: A Walk for Everyone
The classic Dove Stone experience is the circular loop around the main reservoir. It’s roughly 2.5 miles (4 km) and takes about an hour if you’re strolling.
It’s largely flat and accessible, but if you are pushing a wheelchair or a heavy pram, I have a specific piece of local advice for you: Go Anti-Clockwise.
If you head left from the car park (clockwise) along the top of the dam, you eventually hit a short, sharp incline before the top dam that can be a nightmare to get a wheelchair up.
If you go right (anti-clockwise), passing the sailing club first, the gradients are much gentler and easier to manage. Just be careful on that downward slope after the top dam.
What to Look Out For
As you walk the circuit, you aren’t just looking at water. The valley is full of history if you know where to look.
1. The King of Tonga Stone Yes, you read that right. Near the Yeoman Hey dam wall (the first dam you reach walking up the valley), there is a stone commemorating the visit of King Taufa’ahau Tupou IV of Tonga in 1981. He was in the UK for Prince Charles and Diana’s wedding and came up to Saddleworth because the local construction firm, George Dew & Co, had built the harbour in Tonga. It’s a bizarre, wonderful connection between the South Pacific and the Pennines.
2. The “Ghost Castle” (Ashway Gap) On the far side of the water, you’ll see a grand flight of stone steps leading to nowhere. This used to be Ashway Gap House, a Victorian shooting lodge that looked like a castle. It was demolished years ago, but the “ghost garden” remains. It’s a spooky, atmospheric spot for a picnic.
3. The Life for a Life Forest You’ll pass quieter wooded areas designated as memorial forests. It’s a beautiful initiative where trees are planted in memory of loved ones. It adds a sense of peace to the place—please respect it as you pass through.
You can also read about my winter hiking adventures above Dove Stone Reservoir. Up on Wimberry Rocks with a non politically correct nickname.
For the Adventurers: The Trinnacle and The Dangers
If you’ve been on Instagram lately, you’ve probably seen The Trinnacle—that incredible three-pronged rock formation hanging off the cliff edge.
It looks epic, but it is not part of the easy circular walk.
To get there, you have to scramble up a waterfall (Birchen Clough) and traverse the high moorland. It is steep, muddy, and in winter, it can be dangerous. I’ve seen too many people heading up there in flip-flops or white trainers. Please, don’t be that person.
The Serious Stuff: Fires and Water
I love this landscape, and it breaks my heart to see it damaged.
- BBQs are banned. No exceptions. The peat on the moors is incredibly flammable. One spark can cause a wildfire that burns for weeks. The fines are huge (£2,500+), but the damage to the nesting birds (like the Curlews and Golden Plovers) is worse.
- No Swimming. The reservoirs look inviting, but people have died here. The water is freezing (cold water shock kills instantly) and there is machinery under the surface. Enjoy the view, but stay dry.
Après-Hike: Eat and Drink Like a Local
You’ve done the miles; you’ve earned the calories. Dove Stone itself usually just has a burger van or ice cream truck, so head into the villages.
- Grandpa Greene’s (Diggle): If you have kids (or just a sweet tooth), this is non-negotiable. It’s an ice-cream parlour right on the canal. It’s superb.
- The Clarence (Greenfield): The pub at the bottom of the hill. Great for a Sunday roast or a pint of local ale while you wait for the bus.
- Uppermill: A little further down the road, Uppermill is the “capital” of Saddleworth. It’s packed with cafes. Try The Waggon for food or Caffè Grande Abaco if you want excellent coffee and a bit of people-watching.
Dove Stone is special. It’s where industry meets the wild, and where Manchester meets the mountains. Treat it with respect, park sensibly, and it’ll give you some of the best fresh air in England.
See you on the fells.
Other walks and tips nearby:
- Pots and Pans, Saddleworth – A Memorable Walk
- Hartshead Pike – The Edge of the Pennines at Dusk
- A Family Walk Up Standedge – Overlooking Saddleworth
