Journey to the Edge: A Personal Guide to North Cape (Nordkapp) and Magerøya, Norway

There are places on this planet that pull at you simply because of what they represent. The “ends of the earth.” The North Cape (Nordkapp) in Norway is one of those places.

I have been lucky enough to visit this dramatic cliff on Magerøya island a couple of times, usually as a shore excursion from the Hurtigruten coastal steamer.

Standing there, looking out over the Barents Sea where the Atlantic meets the Arctic, gives you a feeling that is hard to describe.

You are at 71°10′21″N. The only thing between you and the North Pole is the Svalbard archipelago and a whole lot of icy ocean.

But visiting the northernmost point of Europe isn’t as straightforward as just driving up and parking. Is it really the northernmost point? How do you avoid the tourist traps? And what happens if you visit in the depths of winter?

Here is my complete guide to visiting the North Cape, revamped with everything you need to know for your own expedition.

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The “Northernmost” Debate: Nordkapp vs. Knivskjellodden

Let’s get the elephant in the room out of the way first.

If you are a geography purist, you might be disappointed to learn that the North Cape plateau—where the globe monument stands—is not actually the northernmost point of mainland Europe.

That title belongs to the neighboring headland, Knivskjellodden, which juts out to 71°11′08″N—about 1,450 meters further north than the North Cape.

• The Tourist North (Nordkapp): This is where the road ends, the buses go, and the champagne is popped. It is dramatic, accessible, and iconic.
• The Hiker’s North (Knivskjellodden): To reach the true northernmost point, you have to earn it. It requires an 18-kilometer round-trip hike (5–6 hours). The trail is marked with red “T”s and starts from a parking lot about 7km before the North Cape toll plaza.

My take: Unless you are a dedicated trekker, the North Cape plateau provides the better view.

From the “tourist” cliff, you can actually see the Knivskjellodden peninsula. If you hike to Knivskjellodden, you are staring at the sea (and looking back at the tall North Cape cliff). Both are achievements, but they offer different rewards.

How to Get There: Beating the Logistics

Getting to Magerøya used to be a challenge involving ferries, but the North Cape Tunnel changed everything.

1. The Drive (and the Tunnel Myth)

If you are road-tripping, you will take the E69 highway. It’s an engineering marvel that winds along the Porsangerfjord.

• The Tunnel: The 6.8km tunnel dives 212 meters below sea level.
• Good News: The tunnel toll has been abolished. It is now free to drive onto the island. Many older guidebooks still list expensive fees, so don’t let that scare you off.

2. The Winter Convoy (Kolonnekjøring)

This is crucial if you are visiting between October and April. The road for the last 13 kilometers to the plateau is often closed to private traffic due to snowstorms and whiteouts. You must follow a snowplow in a designated convoy.

Typical Winter Convoy Schedule (Subject to change):

• 11:00: Main convoy for private cars and buses.
• 12:00: Reserved mostly for Hurtigruten/Public buses.
• 19:30: The “Aurora Convoy” (for Northern Lights chasing).

Tip: Be at the barrier at least 15 minutes early. If the convoy is full or the weather is too severe, the gate stays shut.

3. For Cruise Passengers: Avoid the “Excursion Tax”

Most of my visits were via the Hurtigruten, which docks in Honningsvåg. The ship offers an organized excursion to the Cape. It is convenient and guaranteed to get you back to the ship on time, but it can cost upwards of 2000 NOK ($180+).

The Budget Hack:

If you want to save money, walk 2 minutes from the pier to the Tourist Information office. You can catch the local Bus 406 (North Cape Express).

• It runs a “North Cape Summer Tour” that syncs with the cruise arrivals (usually departing around 11:15).
• The cost is significantly lower (often around 990 NOK including entrance), and you travel the same road with the same views. Just keep a close eye on your ship’s departure time!

The Cost of the Edge: Nordkapphallen

Arriving at the plateau, you are greeted by the Nordkapphallen (North Cape Hall). This visitor center is built largely underground to protect it from the fierce Arctic winter.

The Entrance Fee Controversy

For years, there was a dispute regarding parking fees. The courts recently ruled that the outdoor plateau is public land (thanks to Norway’s “Right to Roam”), meaning parking should technically be free. However, entering the building itself (for the warmth, the movie, and the museum) requires a ticket.

2024/2025 Prices (Approximate):

• Adult: ~320 – 350 NOK
• Child: ~90 NOK
• Family: ~750 NOK

Is it worth paying to go inside?

In summer, you could technically skip it and just walk to the Globe. But in winter? You will want that ticket. It grants you access to:

1. The Panorama Film: An incredible 180-degree movie by Ivo Caprino showing the Cape through all four seasons.
2. The Cave of Lights: An atmospheric tunnel leading to a balcony halfway down the cliff.
3. Thai Museum: A small museum commemorating the visit of King Chulalongkorn of Siam in 1907.
4. St. Johannes Kapell: The world’s northernmost ecumenical chapel.

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A Walk Through History

The North Cape isn’t just a tourist trap; it has a soul.

The Royal Steps:

Before the road was built in 1956, visitors had to climb 1,008 wooden steps from Hornvika bay. King Oscar II did this in 1873, effectively launching tourism here.

You can still see his obelisk on the plateau. In the old days, wealthy travelers would celebrate reaching the top with a glass of champagne—a tradition you can still partake in at the Hall’s bar.

The Scorched Earth:

The drive from Honningsvåg is hauntingly beautiful, but notice the architecture. Almost every building is post-1944.

During WWII, retreating German forces burned everything to the ground to deny resources to the Soviet army.

The only building left standing in Honningsvåg was the church, which you can still visit today. It served as a shelter for the locals who refused to evacuate.

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When to Visit: Light and Dark

• Midnight Sun (May 14 – July 29): The sun never sets. If you can, visit the Globe at 01:00 AM. The cruise ship buses usually leave by then, and you might have the “end of the world” all to yourself under a golden sky.
• Northern Lights (Nov – Jan): The polar night means it’s dark, but rarely pitch black. The “blue hour” around noon is magical. If you are lucky, the Aurora Borealis will dance over the globe monument.
• Autumn (Sept – Oct): My personal favorite secret season. The tundra turns vibrant red and orange (“Ruska”), the mosquitoes are gone, and you get sunset and a chance of Northern Lights.

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Beyond the Globe: Hidden Gems

If you have more time than a quick bus turnaround, explore Magerøya deeper:

1. Kirkeporten (The Church Gate): A short 2.5km hike from Skarsvåg village leads to a natural rock arch. Look through it, and you get a perfect frame of the North Cape “horn” in the distance.
2. Bird Safari (Gjesværstappan): Drive to the village of Gjesvær. Millions of puffins, gannets, and razorbills nest on the nearby islands. You can’t land there, but boat trips get you incredibly close.
3. King Crab Safari: This is the big business of the north. You can join a RIB boat tour to pull up pots of these massive invasive crabs—and then eat them fresh.

The Children of the Earth Monument

I could have walked the coast and cliffs here for hours and hours in the gloomy dark cold, my kind of place. There are also more monuments to see if you start venturing.

In 1988 some children from around the world, Tanzania, Brazil, Japan, Thailand, Italy, Soviet Union and USA came to stay with families in the nearby settlement of Skarsvåg, that most northern fishing village.

They cast some clay models that were then set in bronze and erected at the North Cape in 1989.. The Children of the Earth Monument.

A symbol of cooperation, friendship, hope and joy.

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Quick Reference Guide

Final Thoughts

Is the North Cape a “tourist trap”? Maybe a little. It’s expensive, it can be crowded.

But when you stand by that iron globe, with the wind howling and the endless ocean crashing 300 meters below you, none of that matters. You are standing on the edge of the map. And that is a feeling worth the journey.

I have been more than once so that tells you something.

If you want to discover more of my adventures in North Norway then see:

• Norway – Alta, An Arctic Snow Scooter Safari and Ice Hotel
• Norway: Tromsø and Dog Sledding