Walk the sands of the Dee Estuary to the solitary sentinel where a King lost his crown.
When people talk about King Edward I’s “Iron Ring” of castles in North Wales, they usually jump straight to the big hitters: the imperial grandeur of Caernarfon, the fairytale turrets of Conwy, or the cliff-top drama of Harlech.
But before all of them, there was Flint.
Standing on the marshy banks of the Dee Estuary, looking out across the shifting sands towards the Wirral, Flint Castle (Castell y Fflint) feels different.
It doesn’t have the gift shops or the ticket barriers of its famous brothers. Instead, it has a raw, elemental atmosphere.
It is a ruin in the truest sense—open to the sky, battered by the tides, and absolutely dripping with history.
This is where the conquest began. It is also the stage for one of the most famous betrayals in British history, immortalised by Shakespeare.
If you want to understand the story of North Wales, you have to start here.
The History: Where the Iron Ring Began
In 1277, King Edward I marched north to subdue Llywelyn ap Gruffudd (The Last Prince of Wales). He needed a foothold—a place that could be supplied by sea (to avoid Welsh ambushes on land) and was just a day’s march from his base in Chester.
He chose a strategic rock on the edge of the Dee Estuary. He brought with him nearly 2,300 men—diggers, masons, and woodcutters—and began to build.
Unlike the later concentric designs you see at Beaumaris Castle, Flint was an experiment. It looks unlike any other castle in Britain. Why? Because of its Great Tower (Donjon).
The “French” Connection If you look at the castle plan, you’ll see the Great Tower stands isolated in the corner, separated from the rest of the castle by its own moat. It is essentially a castle within a castle.
Historians believe this design was inspired by the Tour de Constance at Aigues-Mortes in France, which Edward visited while on Crusade. It was designed to be the final refuge—if the main walls fell, the King could retreat across the drawbridge into this self-contained fortress and hold out until the tide brought the navy to his rescue.
The Betrayal of Richard II
Flint’s most famous moment didn’t involve a siege, but a surrender. In 1399, King Richard II was lured here into a trap set by his cousin, Henry Bolingbroke (who would become Henry IV).
It was within these cold stone walls that Richard realised his reign was over. Shakespeare dramatised this moment in Richard II, describing the castle’s “tattered battlements.”
The Legend of Mathe the Greyhound
There is a heartbreaking legend associated with this surrender. Richard had a favourite greyhound named Mathe, who was famously loyal and would only let the King touch him.
As Richard met Bolingbroke in the courtyard, the dog reportedly deserted his master, running to Bolingbroke and placing his paws on the usurper’s shoulders.
Richard took it as a sign from God, supposedly saying: “The greyhound maketh you cheer this day as king of England, as ye shall be; and I shall be deposed.”
Exploring the Ruins: What to See
Walking through the ruins today is a peaceful, if slightly eerie, experience. Because entry is free and the site is open, you can often have the place entirely to yourself, save for the seagulls.
- The Isolated Donjon: You can walk right into the base of the Great Tower. Look for the thick walls (7 metres at the base!) and the gallery passage that runs around the inside.
- The Inner Ward: Stand in the centre of the grassy square. This is the “Base Court” Shakespeare wrote about. Imagine the noise of Bolingbroke’s army surrounding the walls.
- The Views: Climb the modern spiral staircase in the North East tower. The view across the estuary is spectacular. On a clear day, you can see the Hilbre Islands and the Wirral coastline.
The Iron Ring: How Does Flint Compare?
Flint is the “Prototype” of the set. It lacks the polish of the later castles, but it feels more authentic to the landscape.
- Flint vs.Beaumaris: Beaumaris is the “technically perfect” concentric castle; Flint is the experimental first draft. Beaumaris is manicured; Flint is rugged.
- Flint vs. Conwy: Conwy is a fairytale fortress designed to dominate a town. Flint is a military bunker designed to survive a siege from the sea.
- Flint vs. Harlech: Harlech relies on the high cliffs for defence. Flint relies on the treacherous tides of the Dee.
Visiting Essentials: Practical Tips
Free Entry & Parking
Unlike the other Iron Ring castles managed by Cadw, Flint Castle is completely FREE to enter .
- Parking: There is a free car park right next to the castle (off Castle Dyke Street).
- Train: Flint Station is on the main line (Manchester/Chester to Holyhead). It is a mere 5-minute walk from the station to the castle, making this the easiest castle to visit by public transport.
Tides and Safety (Crucial!)
The Dee Estuary has one of the highest tidal ranges in the world. The tide comes in fast.
- Warning: Do not venture out onto the mudflats. The channels fill up behind you quicker than you can run. Stick to the coastal path.
- Check the Tides: Always check the Tide times before you go, especially if you hope to see the “Tidal Bore”—a wave that surges up the river on high spring tides.
Dogs
Flint Castle is very dog-friendly. Because it is open ground, dogs are welcome on leads throughout the ruins. It’s a popular spot for locals walking their pooches along the coastal path.
The Coastal Walk: Giants and Dragons
If you want to stretch your legs, pick up the Wales Coast Path right from the castle car park. I recommend the short walk (approx. 2.5 miles) north-west towards Bagillt.
This stretch of coast was once heavy industry—collieries, lead works, and docks. Today, nature has reclaimed it. You’ll walk through reed beds filled with birds (keep an eye out for Natterjack toads).
Look out for:
- The Story Benches: A series of sculptures along the foreshore depicting local characters, including a WWI soldier and an RNLI helmswoman.
- The Bagillt Dragon: Further along, on top of a grassy mound (a former colliery spoil heap), stands a large red steel Dragon. It’s a fantastic viewpoint and a defiant symbol of Welsh identity rising from the industrial ash.
Where to Eat & Drink
Flint is a working town, not a tourist trap, so don’t expect the artisanal delis of Conwy. However, there are some great spots for honest food.
- The George & Dragon: Located on Church Street, just a short walk from the castle. It was recently voted “Best Pub 2025” for the region. It’s a proper historic pub with a great menu of classics (and its own ghost story involving a “Lady in a Green Hat”).
- The Old Court House (Caffi’r Hen Llys): Situated in the beautifully restored Tudor courthouse on Church Street. Perfect for a coffee and a scone after exploring the ruins.
Conclusion
Flint Castle might be the “ruined” sibling of the Iron Ring family, but that is its charm. It feels undiscovered.
Standing in the shadow of the Donjon, with the wind whipping off the Irish Sea, you can feel the history here in a way that is harder to find in the crowded courtyards of Caernarfon.
It is the grey sentinel of the sands, and it is absolutely worth a stop.
Other free castle or ancient ruins to visit in the UK include:
- Pendragon Castle: A Guide to Mallerstang’s Romantic Ruin
- The Roman Saxon Shore Fort of Burgh Castle, Norfolk
- Stafford Castle – Dominating The Skyline Over 900 Years
