Cinque Terre sunset

We were off to Cinque Terre (Five Lands), Italy, to celebrate my 50th. My wife Becky had visited the area twice before with a friend and had been dying to take me ever since. Now was the time.

Situated along the picturesque coast of the Italian Riviera, Cinque Terre is a collection of five charming fishing villages that will take your breath away. With its enchanting beauty and colorful cliffside houses, this destination is a must-visit for travelers seeking a unique and authentic Italian experience.

Cinque Terre accommodation view

Each village in Cinque Terre offers its own distinct charm. Riomaggiore is known for its narrow streets and vibrant atmosphere, while Manarola is famous for its breathtaking sunset views. The village of Corniglia sits perched on a rocky hilltop, offering panoramic vistas of the Mediterranean Sea. Vernazza boasts a beautiful natural harbor, and Monterosso al Mare is home to stunning sandy beaches.

Monterosso al Mare harbour at night

You can explore the rugged coastal hiking trails that connect these villages, taking in the breathtaking views of vineyards, olive groves, and azure waters along the way. Indulge in the local cuisine, sampling fresh seafood and sipping on the region’s famous wine. Relax on the beach, soak up the sun, and let the charm of this unique destination captivate you.

History and culture of Cinque Terre

Cinque Terre has a rich history that stretches back centuries. These five fishing villages, nestled between the rugged cliffs and the azure waters of the Mediterranean, have long been a hub of maritime activity and cultural heritage.

The origins of Cinque Terre can be traced back to the early medieval period, when the villages were first established as small fishing communities. Over time, the inhabitants of these villages developed a unique way of life, adapting to the challenging terrain and harnessing the resources of the sea. The construction of the iconic terraced vineyards and olive groves, which cling precariously to the steep slopes, is a testament to the ingenuity and resilience of the local people.

Cinque Terre view from water

Throughout the centuries, Cinque Terre has been shaped by the interplay of various cultural influences. The region’s strategic location along the coast made it a hub for trade and cultural exchange, with the villages serving as important stops along maritime routes. This cross-pollination of ideas and traditions is reflected in the architecture, cuisine, and traditions that have evolved over time, creating a distinct cultural tapestry that is uniquely Cinque Terre.

The five villages of Cinque Terre

The five distinct villages Cinque Terre each has its own unique character and charm. These villages, Riomaggiore, Manarola, Corniglia, Vernazza, and Monterosso al Mare, are connected by a network of hiking trails too which is great for any explorer.

We’re here in late July, so we had to take into consideration the temperature and humidity before any long walks and hikes. More on the trails a little further on.

Cinque Terre village view at dusk

Monterosso al Mare

the northernmost village, is known for its sandy beaches and laidback atmosphere. This larger village offers a wider range of amenities, including hotels, restaurants, and a vibrant nightlife. Visitors can explore the historic old town, relax on the beach, or embark on hiking trails that offer stunning views of the surrounding cliffs and vineyards.

looking out over the sea

Advised to book ahead for restaurants for lunch and dinner, we opted for La Cantina Di Miky on the beach front in Monterosso, sister to the other Miky more formal restaurant down the road.

Overlooking the private beaches and lidos, colourful umbrellas line the sand. For lunch we had a fish sharing plate, octopus, stuffed mussels and a white fish, whose name I didn’t catch.

fish and octopus dinner

For the main course I opted for steak, beautifully prepared and seasoned, a melt in the mouth cut of sirloin, Becky had spaghetti.

sirloin steak at the restaurant

Then we shared a mango and passion fruit dessert. All washed down with a couple of glasses of aromatic local white wine. And cocktails to begin with.

Vernazza

Often considered the most picturesque of the five villages, boasts a natural harbor and a charming piazza that serves as the heart of the community. The village’s colorful houses, fishing boats, and medieval tower create a postcard-perfect scene that has captivated visitors for centuries.bIf you’ve seen the Disney film Luca you’ll recognise the town square leading to the harbour.

Vernazza beach

Like all the five villages, it too is surrounded by rocks, making bathing more of a challenge, but not for the locals, who throw towels down in precarious spots. There’s no doubt why these villages were considered strongholds back in the day. Hard to reach by land, and easy to defend from pirates who dared approach from the sea. Nowadays the only threat is the sheer volume of tourists who descend in waves with each passing train.

Considering we’re here in the height of the busiest period, it’s not too bad. It sometimes takes a minute or two to get on and off the trains, but rush hour in London is far, far worse. By early evening most of the day trippers have left, leading to a more chilled atmosphere.

boat trip

After returning to our wonderful apartment (more on that in a minute), we decided to book on a three hour sunset boat trip with the enigmatic Jennifer, and her proudly pink boat named Hyena.

Joined by two other couples, a young American couple from San Francisco who’d just got married in Vernazza, and a French couple, one of whom lost his sea legs half way through, we ventured out at 6pm.

Jennifer is a bundle of energy and proudly told us the history of Riomaggiore (the last of the five villages as you head north to south).

sunset boat trip with Dom Burch

Not a big fan of the local politicians she bemoaned the promenade trail that seemingly cost millions to repair but is yet to reopen. Apparently, according to local reports and a ceremony we witnessed ourselves it is due to open next week!

We set sail along the coast heading along the shoreline and dropping anchor, or stopping and bobbing around at the mouth of a cave. All six of us were encouraged to jump in, and swim into the cave, then swim out a much narrower tunnel.

swimming tunnel

Let’s just say 2 did and 4 didn’t. As you near 50, the idea of the next big wave lifting you up in a claustrophobic cave and banging your head on the rocks above is less appealing than it once was. The snorkeling however was excellent. Following sholes of fish, and floating around. Our French compatriot at this point looked a bit pale.

drinks on the boat

Which meant more Rosé (Jennifer’s favourite colour) prosecco and meats for the rest of us. She headed out to sea and as we looked back behind her we watched the most magical sunset. The trip wasn’t cheap, 125 Euros a head, and normally I’m a bit tight when it comes to these things, but you know what, it sometimes pays to push the boat out. Highly recommend.

Corniglia

The only village in Cinque Terre that is not directly accessible by the sea, sits perched atop a rocky promontory. This charming village, accessible only by a long staircase or a shuttle bus, offers breathtaking panoramic views of the coastline and the surrounding vineyards. Visitors can wander through the narrow alleyways, visit the local church, and savor the tranquility of this hilltop haven.

The heat was intense, and even the walk from the station in Corniglia was challenging. 200 steps snaking back and forth a steep incline, but there are places to stop and sit, that said mainly exposed to the midday sun. The alternative is to wait for the regular shuttle bus (1.5 Euros).

Corniglia ice cream

Once there though, you’re greeted by a lovely winding road of high buildings and narrow alleyways, filled with upmarket gift shops, bars and cafes. We opted for one with a panoramic view that was in the shade and benefited from the breeze.

You can’t go too wrong in terms of stopping for a bite to eat and a refreshing Spritz. Apparently fennel is good for the digestive system.

We then made the downward trek to the station. The trains are good, but be prepared for a slightly erratic timetable and trains to arrive late. They are fairly regular and if you’re unlucky the longest you’ll wait is 30 mins. Grab a lemon and basil granita before leaving the village!

Manarola

Situated just north of Riomaggiore, is renowned for its stunning sunset views and picturesque harbour. The village’s iconic buildings, painted in shades of yellow, orange, and pink, cascade down the hillside, creating a postcard-worthy scene. Visitors can explore the quaint streets, sample the region’s famous wine, and bask in the warm Mediterranean sun.

Manarola

Here we watched boys jump from rocks and do backflips into the bay. Not for the feint hearted. We stopped for a quick drink, but didn’t dwell. There’s a place on the cliff that’s very popular called Nessun Dorma. You need to book on an app. The views from there are seemingly stunning.

But we were hot and bothered and favoured heading home for a swim near our apartment in Riomaggiore. Now let me introduce you to Roberto. He’d met us at the station when we first arrived, donning his yellow bib, as an official luggage transporter.

We walked through the tunnel which takes you to the main village, and the up into the square where he recommended restaurants and places for drinks.

His apartment was stunning. Immaculately clean, full of character, exposed beams and stone, air conditioned, a necessity, and a lovely balcony looking out to sea one way and toward the slightly elevated square, where as luck would have it, a music festival took place that weekend to celebrate a local saint.

music festival Manarola

Roberto lent us his kayak for free, filled the mini bar each day with snacks and drinks (no extra cost), and couldn’t have been a better host.

He popped up everywhere we went. At the station, he was there ready to transport luggage, in the harbour, he was going from bar to bar collecting bottles for recycling. He never stops.

It was our final night of a three night break, so we decided to book in for dinner at Rio Bistrot opposite our apartment and looking out to sea.

And with one final push of the boat, went for the tasting menu at 65 Euros a head.

tasting menu Manarola

With no allergies we were fortunate to have whatever the chef decided to send. An array of delicious seafood. Great service and lovely food.

On our final day we had to check out at 10am, but didn’t need to get the train back up to Genoa airport until 6pm.

Riomaggiore

The southernmost village, is known for its vibrant atmosphere and colorful houses that cling to the steep cliffs.

Riomaggiore street view at night

The narrow streets and winding staircases of Riomaggiore lead visitors through a maze of charming shops, cafes, and local hangouts, where the rhythm of life is dictated by the ebb and flow of the sea.

Masseuse

Worried we’d get hot and bothered wandering the same villages instead we found Kate the masseuse, a Brit who moved to the area 20+ years ago having fallen in love with a local. We arranged to meet by the car park near Vernazza station (up the hill towards Il Pirata where we later had an excellent lunch).

a city on a hill next to the water Cinque Terre

She then transported us up the winding roads, beeping her horn at every blind corner, as over confident locals sped down the other way. It was a white knuckle ride, but good fun, and a great conversation starter with our masseuse.

The view from her place is absolutely stunning. A fitting end to a wonderful trip to Cinque Terre. And the treatment was perfect too. 80 Euros each for a one hour massage, with cupping. And an hour for the other one, looking out to sea, or in my case writing this blog.

Kate the masseuse

Natural beauty and landscapes of Cinque Terre

The natural beauty of Cinque Terre is truly breathtaking, with its rugged coastline, verdant hills, and crystal-clear waters. This UNESCO World Heritage Site is a testament to the power of nature and the resilience of the human spirit, as the local inhabitants have carved out a way of life in this seemingly inhospitable terrain.

The dramatic cliffs that rise up from the sea are a defining feature of Cinque Terre’s landscape, creating a stunning backdrop for the colorful villages that cling to the slopes. These towering rock formations, sculpted by the relentless forces of wind and water, offer a sense of scale and grandeur that is truly awe-inspiring.

Cinque Terre seascape and cliffs

The region’s unique geography has also given rise to a rich and diverse ecosystem, with a wide range of flora and fauna thriving in the protected national park. Visitors can explore the hiking trails and discover the vibrant wildflowers, fragrant herbs, and ancient olive groves that dot the landscape. The azure waters of the Mediterranean are teeming with marine life, making Cinque Terre a haven for snorkelers and divers.

One of the most iconic natural features of Cinque Terre is the network of terraced vineyards and olive groves that cling to the steep hillsides. These carefully cultivated plots, which have been meticulously maintained for generations, are a testament to the ingenuity and resilience of the local people. The produce from these vineyards and orchards, including the region’s famous wines and olive oils, shows the rich natural bounty of Cinque Terre.

Activities and attractions in Cinque Terre

Cinque Terre is a destination that offers a wealth of activities and attractions for visitors to explore. From hiking and watersports to cultural immersion and culinary experiences, there is something to captivate every traveler’s interest.

One of the most popular activities in Cinque Terre is hiking the network of trails that connect the five villages. These well-marked paths, known as the Sentiero Azzurro (Blue Trail), offer breathtaking views of the coastline and the surrounding landscapes. Hikers can choose from a variety of routes, ranging from the challenging Cinque Terre Trail to the more leisurely Lover’s Lane, each offering a unique perspective on the region’s natural beauty.

For those seeking a more relaxed pace, the villages themselves offer a wealth of cultural and historical attractions. Visitors can explore the charming streets, visit local churches and museums, and immerse themselves in the rich traditions and customs of the region. In Riomaggiore, the Castle of Riomaggiore and the Church of San Giovanni Battista are must-see landmarks, while Vernazza’s Doria Castle and the Church of Santa Margherita d’Antiochia offer a glimpse into the area’s medieval heritage.

watching sunset at Cinque Terre

Water-based activities are also a popular draw in Cinque Terre. Visitors can take a boat tour to explore the coastline from the sea, or enjoy a refreshing swim in the crystal-clear waters of the Mediterranean. Snorkeling and scuba diving are also popular options, allowing visitors to discover the vibrant marine life that thrives in the protected national park.

For those interested in culinary adventures, Cinque Terre offers a wealth of opportunities to indulge in the region’s renowned cuisine. From fresh seafood dishes to the famous Ligurian pesto and the region’s renowned wines, the local food scene is a true highlight of any visit. Visitors can explore the local markets, attend cooking classes, and dine in the charming restaurants that dot the villages, savoring the flavors of this unique corner of Italy.

Hiking trails in Cinque Terre

Cinque Terre is renowned for its network of hiking trails, which offer visitors the opportunity to explore the region’s stunning natural beauty and connect the five picturesque villages. These well-marked paths, collectively known as the Sentiero Azzurro (Blue Trail), are a UNESCO World Heritage site and a beloved attraction for outdoor enthusiasts and nature lovers alike.

Cinque Terre coastline

Cinque Terre Trail

The most famous and challenging of these trails is the Cinque Terre Trail, which spans the entirety of the region, connecting all five villages. This iconic hike, which can take anywhere from 5 to 7 hours to complete, offers breathtaking views of the coastline, the terraced vineyards, and the azure waters of the Mediterranean. Along the way, hikers will encounter a variety of terrain, from steep, rocky ascents to gentle, winding paths that wind through olive groves and lush vegetation.

Lover’s Lane (Sentiero dell’Amore) Trail

For those seeking a more leisurely experience, the Lover’s Lane (Sentiero dell’Amore) trail is a popular choice. This picturesque path, which connects Manarola and Riomaggiore, is known for its stunning coastal views and romantic atmosphere. The trail is relatively short, making it an ideal option for those looking to experience the beauty of Cinque Terre without undertaking a strenuous hike.

Other Trails

In addition to the Cinque Terre Trail and Lover’s Lane, the region offers a variety of other hiking options, each with its own unique character and challenges. The Sentiero Rosso (Red Trail), for example, offers a more rugged and challenging experience, with steep climbs and narrow, winding paths. The Sentiero Azzurro (Blue Trail) is a well-maintained and relatively easy route that connects the villages, allowing hikers to explore the region at a leisurely pace.

Regardless of which trail you choose, hiking in Cinque Terre is an unforgettable experience that allows visitors to immerse themselves in the region’s natural beauty and rich cultural heritage. From the sweeping vistas of the coastline to the charming villages that dot the landscape, the hiking trails of Cinque Terre offer a unique and rewarding way to discover this enchanting corner of Italy.

Local cuisine and dining options in Cinque Terre

The culinary landscape of Cinque Terre is a true reflection of the region’s rich cultural heritage and bountiful natural resources. From the fresh seafood plucked straight from the Mediterranean to the locally-grown produce and world-renowned wines, the local cuisine of Cinque Terre is a true delight for the senses.

dining at Cinque Terre

One of the hallmarks of Cinque Terre’s culinary tradition is the use of locally-sourced ingredients. The region’s fertile hills and coastal waters provide a wealth of fresh, high-quality produce that is expertly incorporated into a wide range of dishes. Visitors can savor the flavors of the sea in the form of succulent anchovies, fragrant pesto, and delicate seafood preparations, all of which are staples of the local cuisine.

The region’s famous wines, including the crisp and refreshing Cinque Terre DOC and the robust Sciacchetrà dessert wine, are another source of pride for the local community. These wines, which are produced from grapes grown on the region’s steep, terraced vineyards, are the perfect accompaniment to the rich, flavorful dishes that are the hallmark of Cinque Terre’s culinary tradition.

Beyond the classic seafood and wine pairings, Cinque Terre’s cuisine also features a range of vegetable-based dishes that showcase the region’s abundant produce. Visitors can indulge in the creamy, aromatic pesto alla genovese, a signature Ligurian sauce made from fresh basil, pine nuts, garlic, and Parmesan cheese. The region’s hearty, vegetable-forward soups, such as the minestrone alla ligure, are also a beloved local specialty.

When it comes to dining options, Cinque Terre offers a diverse array of experiences, from casual trattorie and family-run eateries to upscale restaurants that showcase the region’s culinary prowess. Visitors can savor the flavors of the sea while enjoying breathtaking views of the coastline, or immerse themselves in the lively atmosphere of the local villages as they sample the region’s signature dishes.

seafood dish at Cinque Terre

Accommodation options in Cinque Terre

Cinque Terre, with its picturesque villages and stunning natural beauty, has long been a popular destination for travelers seeking an authentic Italian experience. As such, the region offers a wide range of accommodation options to suit the needs and preferences of every visitor.

For those seeking a more traditional and immersive experience, the villages of Cinque Terre are home to a variety of charming, family-run hotels and bed and breakfasts. These small, intimate properties often occupy historic buildings and offer a glimpse into the region’s rich cultural heritage. Visitors can enjoy the warm hospitality of the local hosts, who are eager to share their knowledge of the area and its traditions.

accommodation at Cinque Terre

For travelers seeking a more modern and amenity-rich experience, the larger towns of Monterosso al Mare and Levanto offer a wider selection of hotels, ranging from mid-range chains to luxury resorts. These properties often feature amenities such as swimming pools, spas, and on-site restaurants, providing a perfect balance of comfort and convenience.

In addition to traditional hotels and B&Bs, Cinque Terre also offers a range of alternative accommodation options, including vacation rentals, agritourism farms, and even historic monasteries that have been converted into guest houses. These unique properties allow visitors to immerse themselves in the local way of life, while still enjoying the comforts of home.

outside the accommodation in Cinque Terre

Regardless of the type of accommodation you choose, one thing is certain: the stunning natural beauty and cultural richness of Cinque Terre will be a constant backdrop to your stay. Whether you’re waking up to the sound of the waves crashing against the cliffs or enjoying a sunset view from your balcony, the breathtaking scenery of this enchanting region is sure to leave a lasting impression.

How to get to Cinque Terre

Cinque Terre, with its remote and rugged coastline, may seem like a challenging destination to reach, but there are actually several convenient options for travellers looking to explore this enchanting region of Italy.

One of the most popular and scenic ways to reach Cinque Terre is by train. The region is well-connected to the Italian rail network, with each of the five villages having its own train station. Visitors can easily hop on a train from major cities like Genoa, Milan, or Rome, and enjoy the stunning coastal views as they make their way to their destination.

For those who prefer a more independent mode of transportation, renting a car is another viable option. While the narrow, winding roads of Cinque Terre can be a bit of a challenge for drivers, the freedom and flexibility of having a car can be a major advantage, especially for those looking to explore the surrounding countryside or make stops at nearby towns and attractions.

Cinque Terre boat view

Alternatively, visitors can also reach Cinque Terre by boat. Regular ferry services connect the villages, allowing travelers to explore the coastline from the water and enjoy breathtaking views of the cliffs and villages from a unique perspective. This option is particularly popular during the summer months, when the weather is ideal for a scenic boat ride.

For those seeking a more active and adventurous mode of transportation, hiking is a popular way to experience the natural beauty of Cinque Terre. The region’s network of well-marked trails, known as the Sentiero Azzurro (Blue Trail), connect the five villages and offer stunning vistas along the way. This option is perfect for those who want to immerse themselves in the stunning landscapes and get a true sense of the region’s rugged charm.

Regardless of the mode of transportation you choose, reaching Cinque Terre is a relatively straightforward process, with a range of options available to suit the needs and preferences of every traveler. Whether you opt for the convenience of the train, the freedom of a rental car, the romance of a boat ride, or the adventure of a hike, the journey to this enchanting destination is sure to be a memorable part of your Italian odyssey.

Dom Burch drinking in Cinque Terre

Conclusion

Cinque Terre is a true gem of the Italian Riviera, a destination that captivates the senses and leaves a lasting impression on all who visit. From its vibrant, colorful villages and stunning natural landscapes to its rich cultural heritage and world-renowned cuisine, this enchanting region offers a truly unique and unforgettable travel experience.

As you wander through the charming streets of Riomaggiore, Manarola, Corniglia, Vernazza, and Monterosso al Mare, you’ll be struck by the region’s timeless beauty and the resilience of its people, who have carved out a way of life in this seemingly inhospitable terrain. The hiking trails that connect these villages offer breathtaking views of the coastline, the azure waters of the Mediterranean, and the terraced vineyards and olive groves that cling to the steep hills.

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