I Saw the ‘Borneo Big 5’—My Guide to Borneo’s Wildlife & Rainforest

The sky over the South China Sea exploded in pink and orange on our first night in Borneo.

I’d been dreaming of this moment, of this island—the third largest in the world—for years. I’d come with a mission: to find the legendary wildlife I’d only ever seen in a David Attenborough documentary.

Borneo is not just a place; it’s an immersion. It’s a 130-million-year-old rainforest where the call of gibbons is your alarm clock and orangutans, the “Men of the Forest,” still swing wild in the trees.

I’m taking you with me. But this isn’t just my travel story. It’s the guide I wish I’d had.

I learned that a real Borneo wildlife adventure is a journey in three parts: the sanctuaries of Sepilok, the river safari of Kinabatangan, and the ancient jungle of Danum Valley.

We’ll cover all three. I’ll share my quest to find the “Borneo Big 5,” what you absolutely must pack (yes, you need leech socks), and—most importantly—how to do it all ethically.

My Borneo “Big 5” Wildlife Checklist (And Where I Saw Them)

My main goal was wildlife. I quickly learned that while orangutans are the stars, there’s a “Borneo Big 5” that guides and locals talk about.

Seeing all five became my personal quest. This isn’t an official “list” like in Africa, but it’s the perfect way to frame your adventure.

Here’s the rundown of what I was looking for, and where I had the best luck.

Part 1: Sepilok—Up Close with the ‘Men of the Forest’

Nothing prepares you for your first orangutan. I was standing on the viewing platform at the Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre when the ropes high above me started to swing.

A huge, flame-red female appeared, moving with an acrobat’s grace. She was followed by a smaller, playful juvenile. It’s a moment that will stay with me forever.

This is the first stop on the “Big 5” wildlife trail for a reason. It’s the most accessible place in the world to see orangutans in a semi-wild environment.

What to Expect: Why Sepilok is NOT a Zoo (And That’s a Good Thing)

My first tip for visiting Sepilok: set your expectations correctly. This is a rehabilitation center, not a performance or a zoo.

The entire goal is to rescue orphaned and injured orangutans and, ultimately, get them back into the wild.

The feeding platforms, with sessions at 10:00 AM and 3:00 PM, are only for supplementary food—a “top-up” for any apes who aren’t yet skilled enough to find all their own meals in the surrounding 43-square-kilometer reserve.

My guide told me a “secret” that changed my perspective: he said that seeing only one or two orangutans (or even zero!) is a good sign.

It means the apes are healthy, confident, and successfully foraging for themselves. That’s the goal of the center. We were lucky to see four, plus a dozen of their rivals: the very cheeky pig-tailed macaques who steal their bananas.

My Pro-Tips for Visiting the Sepilok Sanctuaries (2025)

It’s a ‘Cluster’ of 3 Parks: Don’t just fly in for the orangutans and leave! The Bornean Sun Bear Conservation Centre is literally right next door and is an absolute must-visit.

These are the world’s smallest bears, and seeing them play and forage after being rescued from the illegal pet trade is just as moving.

The Rainforest Discovery Centre (RDC) is also nearby, offering incredible treetop canopy walks that get you up into the forest’s “penthouse”.

The 3 PM Feeding Hack: Your ticket is valid for the whole day, so you can enter for both the morning and afternoon sessions.

Most of the big tour buses come for the 10:00 AM feeding, and it can get crowded.

I went back for the 3:00 PM feeding and found it much quieter and more peaceful. Get to the platform 30 minutes early for a front-row spot.

Cash is King: When I visited, the ticket office was cash-only. Don’t get caught out.

There are also no supermarkets in the immediate Sepilok area, so stock up on snacks and water in the nearby city of Sandakan.

What to Bring (for the visit): Pack light, but smart. It is incredibly hot and humid. You will sweat. Bring plenty of water (you can’t buy drinks inside the sanctuary), sunscreen, and a sun hat.

While you’re in the forest, the long boardwalks connecting the platforms are often exposed to the full, intense sun.

Part 2: My Kinabatangan River Safari—Cruising into a Wildlife Paradise

If Sepilok is the introduction, the Kinabatangan River is the full immersion. This was the part of the trip where I truly felt like I was on a classic safari, cruising into a real-life Jungle Book.

Our tiny boat puttered down the milky-brown river as the jungle on either side screamed with life.

This is where the wild things are. Within hours, I had spotted this Buffy Fish Owl staring at us imperiously from a branch, a monitor lizard slithering up a bank, and a whole troop of Long-Tailed Macaques causing chaos in the mangroves.

This, I thought, is the Borneo I came for.

The Tragic Reason You See So Much Wildlife

I asked my guide why we were seeing so much. It seemed too easy. His answer was sobering and important.

The wildlife density here is one of the highest on Earth because their vast rainforest habitat has been relentlessly cleared for palm oil plantations.

This river is the last tiny, protected corridor they have left. The animals are literally squeezed into this narrow strip of jungle.

It makes the experience incredibly profound—a mix of awe at the beauty and an urgent, sad understanding of its fragility.

How to Plan Your Kinabatangan Cruise: My Honest Advice

The 3D/2N Package is the Only Way: Trust me on this. I looked at all the options, and trying to DIY this is a logistical nightmare. There’s no public transport to the lodges.

A 3-day/2-night package is the standard, and for good reason. It includes your transport from Sandakan/Sepilok, your riverside lodge (which can range from budget dorms to luxury villas like Sukau Rainforest Lodge ), all your meals, and (most importantly) multiple river cruises with a guide.

Don’t Bother With a Day Trip: I met some travelers who did this, and they regretted it. You can book a day trip from Sandakan , but you’ll only get one afternoon cruise.

The magic of the Kinabatangan happens on the early morning and night cruises. Staying overnight at least triples your chances of spotting the big hitters, like pygmy elephants or a wild orangutan.

What to Expect from the Cruises: A typical 3D/2N package is perfectly structured for wildlife spotting.

My schedule looked like this:

• Afternoon Cruise (Day 1): Prime time for monkeys! This is when we saw hundreds of proboscis monkeys settling into the trees for the night.
• Morning Cruise (Day 2): Best for birds (hornbills!) and catching the misty, atmospheric jungle as it wakes up.
• Night Walk/Cruise (Day 2): A chance to spot crocodiles (their eyes glow red in the torchlight), sleeping birds, and nocturnal mammals like civets.
• Morning Cruise (Day 3): One last chance to find whatever you missed!

Part 3: The ‘Lost World’—Why Danum Valley Was My Favorite

The Kinabatangan was an incredible safari, but the Danum Valley… this was something else. This is where I truly felt “off the grid.” Getting there involves a long, bumpy 2.5-hour ride on muddy logging tracks, and when you arrive, you are in it.

This is 438 square kilometers of pristine, 130-million-year-old primary rainforest.

It has never been logged. It’s what all of Borneo used to be.

Danum Valley vs. Kinabatangan River: What’s the Difference?

This is the key question I had before I went. Here’s the answer:

• Kinabatangan is a narrow river corridor where wildlife is concentrated and (relatively) easy to spot from a boat. It’s a “safari” experience.
• Danum Valley is a vast, untouched jungle. The wildlife is more spread out, so you have to work harder (i.e., trek) to see it. You might see fewer “big” animals, but you’re seeing them in a truly wild, primary ecosystem.

You go to Kinabatangan for the safari; you go to Danum for the experience of the ancient rainforest itself. I was lucky enough to see pygmy elephants in both, but the Danum experience felt more… earned.

What My Danum Valley Night Walk Was Really Like

My guide handed me a head torch… and my heart was pounding. The jungle at night is a deafening symphony of cicadas, frogs, and a thousand unseen things rustling in the dark.

We did a guided walk. The focus isn’t on big mammals; it’s on the weird and wonderful. We saw luminous “glow-in-the-dark” fungi, giant stick insects as long as my forearm, a tiny Western Tarsier with eyes like saucers, and—I’m not kidding—a “jungle crab” living in a hole in a tree. It was humid, thrilling, and one of my favorite memories of the entire trip.

Pro-Tip: Your lodge (I stayed at the Danum Valley Field Centre) will offer guided walks (like mine) or 4×4 night drives.

The drives are less intense and better for spotting mammals like civets, leopard cats, and giant flying squirrels. I recommend doing both if you can!

The Canopy Walk & The Leech Sock Warning

You cannot go to Danum Valley and skip the canopy walkway. At 26 meters (85 feet) high, you are literally up in the treetops with the monkeys and birds. It gives you a perspective on the sheer scale of the trees that you just can’t get from the forest floor.

Now, a serious warning: Buy. Leech. Socks.….

This is not optional for any trekking in Danum Valley. They are cheap to buy locally in Sandakan.

They are not fashionable. You will look ridiculous. But they work. I wore them, and they worked. A traveller in my group didn’t… and they paid the bloody price. You’ve been warned!

My Ultimate Borneo Packing List (And What Not to Bring)

I know a thing or two about packing light. But Borneo’s humidity is a different beast. I was sweating a lot. The key isn’t less clothing, it’s the right clothing.

My #1 Rule: NO COTTON..

I’m serious. It will get wet (from sweat or rain) and it will never, ever dry. It’s heavy, uncomfortable, and miserable. Stick to quick-drying synthetics (nylon, polyester) or light merino wool. Paul talks about this in his layering guide.

Here is my essential, field-tested checklist:

How to Be a Responsible Tourist in Borneo (A 2025 Guide)

This is the most important section in this guide. Seeing wildlife this close is a privilege, not a right.

The animals and ecosystems in Borneo are critically endangered, threatened by deforestation, poaching, and the palm oil industry. After seeing the “sad truth” of the Kinabatangan, I felt a huge responsibility to travel in a way that helps, not hurts.

Here’s what I learned.

My Simple Rules for Ethical Wildlife Encounters

1. The 10-Meter Rule: At sanctuaries, never get closer than 7-10 meters (23-33 feet) to an ape. This is for their safety. We can easily pass on human diseases, and an orangutan with a common cold can die.
2. No Touching, No Feeding, No Selfies: Period. These are wild animals, even in a rehab center. Feeding them disrupts their natural behavior and rehabilitation.
3. Stay on the Path: Don’t trample the forest floor just to get a better photo. Stay on the designated boardwalks and trails to protect the fragile flora and fauna.
4. No Flash Photography: It can scare and disorient the animals, especially nocturnal ones.
5. Keep Your Voice Down: This seems obvious, but the number of people I heard shouting…. The quieter you are, the more you’ll see.
6. Choose Your Tour Operator Wisely: This is the biggest impact you can have. I looked for companies that hire local guides, support local communities, and have clear environmental policies. Your tourist dollars are a vote for conservation.

Why Borneo Changed Me

Borneo isn’t just a “trip”; it’s an assault on the senses, in the best possible way. I left a piece of my heart in that 130-million-year-old rainforest. The calls of the gibbons and the whoosh of the hornbill’s wings are sounds I’ll never forget.

I went to “see” wildlife, but I left with a profound, urgent understanding of why we must protect it. I can’t wait to go back.

Are you planning a trip to Borneo? Do you have questions about Sepilok, the Kinabatangan, or Danum Valley? Ask me anything in the comments! I read and reply to all of them.