Bali is a beautiful place. That is a simple and succinct summary, but it is as true as it is concise.
There is beauty everywhere you look: spectacular water temples, verdant rainforests, cascading tiered rice fields, massive volcanic peaks dominating the skyline, and incredibly warm, welcoming people.
Arriving in Indonesia after spending a few days in the ultra-modern, metronomic city of Singapore can be a jolt to the system.
Air-conditioning and orderly trains are instantly replaced by tropical humidity and an arcade-game-like attitude to road travel.
But once you embrace the beautiful chaos of the scooter-lined streets, you realize you have stepped into an absolute paradise.
As a mountaineer and adventure writer, I’m always chasing landscapes that offer a mix of physical challenge, deep culture, and raw natural beauty.
If you are planning your first trip to the Island of the Gods, this guide breaks down the ultimate alternative itinerary—balancing the spiritual, hiking hubs of Ubud with the tranquil, untouched wilderness of Candidasa and East Bali.
Exploring Bali Need-to-Know:
Best Time to Visit:
The dry season runs from May to October. This offers the absolute best conditions for volcano trekking, ridge walking, and coastal exploration.
Getting Around:
Bali lacks a standard public transit network. For long-distance transfers between regions, hiring a licensed private driver is highly affordable, stress-free, and safe.
Currency:
Indonesian Rupiah (IDR). ATMs are widely available, but keep cash on hand for small village warungs and temple entrance fees.
Temple Dress Code:
To enter any sacred site, men and women must wear a sarong and a traditional waist sash. Most major temples provide these at the gates.
The Reality Check: Skip South Bali for Real Adventure
Most first-time visitors to Bali instinctively book their entire stay in the heavily commercialized southern hubs like Kuta, Seminyak, or Canggu.
While those areas are famous for beach clubs and surfing, they are also plagued by relentless gridlocked traffic, heavy concrete development, and overcrowded beaches.
If you want to experience the authentic soul of the island, see thriving ecosystems, and get out onto pristine trails, you need to head inland to the highlands of Ubud, and then travel east to the coastal wilderness of Candidasa.
This twin-centre combination gives you the perfect balance of mountain air, dense jungle, and slow-paced coastal culture.
Part 1: The Cultural and Hiking Hub of Ubud
Ubud is widely considered the cultural and spiritual heart of Bali. Tucked away in the cooler, mist-shrouded highlands, it is a haven for hikers, wellness seekers, and those looking to immerse themselves in traditional Balinese heritage.
For our base, we stayed slightly north of the busy town center at The Lokha Ubud, a fantastic jungle resort where the nightly chorus of frogs, bugs, and nocturnal critters makes you feel completely disconnected from the modern world.
Morning reveals green as far as the eye can see, with vivid bird of paradise flowers cutting through the lush jungle canvas.
Hiking the Campuhan Ridge Walk
If you love getting out on the trail, the Campuhan Ridge Walk is an absolute essential. This scenic trail links the bustle of Ubud town to the quiet agricultural settlements and artistic cafes to the north.
- Trail Distance: 2 miles (3.2 km) out-and-back.
- Time Needed: 1 to 1.5 hours.
- Difficulty: Easy. The trail follows a well-paved stone path along a narrow ridge, though there are a few short, steep inclines at the beginning.
The best way to experience it is to hit the trail right at sunrise. Watching the early morning mist slowly lift over the stepped, emerald-green paddy fields is a magical experience.
The fields are a marvel of human engineering, utilizing a cascading ancient irrigation system called Subak that allows water to flow from one tier to the next, yet they feel entirely natural and peaceful.
By midday, the ridge transforms into a lively route for adventurous travelers, before turning back over to the bats and frogs as twilight rolls in.
Ubud’s Spectacular Water Temples
Ubud is packed with architectural marvels, but three temples stand out for any visitor:
Pura Taman Saraswati: Famously Instagram-friendly, the grand stone pathway leading up to this water temple is flanked by massive, tranquil water lily pools.
Pura Gunung Lebah: An 8th-century temple set right at the edge of the Campuhan River. Surrounded by thick jungle, it houses magnificent, sky-searching multi-tiered Meru towers.
Pura Dalem Ubud (The Temple of Death): A striking, atmospheric temple adorned with intricate, complex, and intentionally grotesque stone carvings that represent the spiritual balance of life and death.
The Sacred Monkey Forest Conservation Centre
Located at the end of Monkey Forest Road, this lush sanctuary is home to around 700 Balinese long-tailed macaques.
It is a fantastic conservation space where you can watch mothers with clinging babies, but you need to keep your wits about you.
An Insider Primate Tip: Under no circumstances should you turn your back on an adolescent macaque, especially if you are wearing a backpack with visible pockets, zips, or straps. They are incredibly brazen and will happily open a zip to check for snacks!
A Mountaineer’s Take: Trekking Bali’s Iconic Volcanoes
For those looking to trade gentle ridge walks for a serious physical challenge, Bali’s volcanic skyline offers incredible trekking opportunities.
If you want to summit an active volcano during your trip, you have two primary options:
Mount Batur (The Sunrise Staple)
Standing at 1,717 meters (5,633 feet), Mount Batur is the most popular trek on the island.
The hike typically starts around 3:30 AM, taking hikers up a steep but well-worn path of volcanic ash and rock to reach the crater rim in time for sunrise.
It takes about 2 hours to ascend and is highly achievable for anyone with a moderate level of fitness.
Looking down into the massive caldera while steam rises from the active vents is an incredible sight.
Mount Agung (The Mountaineer’s Challenge)
If you want a brutal, unforgiving, and deeply rewarding expedition, Mount Agung is the ultimate peak. Standing at 3,142 meters (10,308 feet), it is the highest point on the island and a deeply sacred site to the Balinese people.
This is a highly strenuous, technical climb that requires a mandatory local guide.
Starting around 11:00 PM, you hike through dense jungle before tackling a relentless, steep scramble over exposed, bare volcanic rock fields.
It takes anywhere from 5 to 7 hours of continuous uphill climbing just to reach the summit.
It will test your knees and your grit, but standing above the cloud line at dawn with views stretching all the way to Lombok’s Mount Rinjani is a world-class reward.
Part 2: Winding Down in Candidasa & East Bali
After a few days navigating the high-energy streets of Ubud, a private transfer east to the coastal town of Candidasa offers a highly welcome change of pace.
Staying at the Sagara Candidasa, we traded the jungle canopy for the turquoise waters of the Indian Ocean, looking out across the strait toward the distant outline of Lombok.
Candidasa is significantly calmer than the south coast or Ubud, making it the perfect basecamp for coastal unwinding, snorkelling, and exploring traditional East Balinese life.
Pink Lilies and Traditional Village Treks
Right within the town lies the Lotus Lagoon, a highly picturesque spot filled with hundreds of pink water lilies.
If you want to photograph them in full bloom, make sure to visit before 10:00 AM before the midday heat forces the petals to close.
For a deeper look into the island’s heritage, I spent a half-day hiking through the traditional villages just west of Candidasa.
Walking past small shacks where locals live a subsistence lifestyle—tending to livestock and hand-weaving complex bamboo baskets to sell—offers a profound, grounding contrast to western standards.
Sunsets at Pasir Putih (Virgin Beach)
We spent our final day at Pasir Putih beach, widely known to travelers as Virgin Beach. Hidden away between dramatic headlands, it features beautiful white sands and incredibly warm, turquoise water.
The beach is lined with traditional warungs (locally owned cafes and shops) where you can rent a sun lounger, get an incredibly cheap beach massage, and dine on fresh local seafood.
The simple, perfectly seasoned grilled tuna I had right on the sand was an absolute highlight of the trip.
On our taxi ride back from the beach, Bali saved its best view for last: a perfectly clear sighting of Mount Agung.
It is usually completely swathed in thick clouds, but catching a glimpse of its sharp, volcanic peak rising into the sky was the perfect finale to an unforgettable journey.
Sampling Indonesian Cuisine
You cannot truly explore Bali without diving into the local food scene. If you enjoy spicy, complex, and vibrant flavours, Indonesian cuisine is an absolute joy.
Throughout the trip, we feasted on classic staples like stir-fried Nasi Goreng, perfectly charred satay, and Ayam Pelalah (a shredded spicy chicken dish packed with local sambal).
I also highly recommend trying Beef Rendang, sampling the rich, slow-cooked unctuousness of the spice paste.
Down on the coast, make sure to safely indulge in the messy but delicious stir-fried chili and ginger crab.
The Bali Adventure Survival Guide
To keep your holiday from being cut short, there are two crucial, boots-on-the-ground safety realities every traveler needs to know:
1. Beating “Bali Belly”
Food poisoning or water-borne illness (locally dubbed ‘Bali Belly’) can completely ruin an active hiking itinerary.
Never drink the tap water in Bali, and use bottled or filtered water even when brushing your teeth.
Be cautious with ice in highly remote villages, and ensure any fresh salads or fruit have been washed in purified water.
Stick to busy warungs where the food turnover is high and everything is cooked fresh to order.
2. The Scooter Rental Warning
It is incredibly tempting to rent a moped for a few dollars a day to explore the island independently.
However, Bali’s roads are complex, fast-moving, and operate on an unwritten code of chaotic cooperation rather than strict laws.
If you do not have a motorcycle license at home and an International Driving Permit (IDP), your travel insurance will not cover you in the event of an accident.
If you aren’t an experienced rider, stick to the affordable private drivers or registered taxi apps.
Whether you are navigating the ancient alleys with your camera in hand, scrambling up active volcanic slopes at midnight, or tucking into fresh seafood by the ocean, Bali is an adventure destination that delivers on every front.
Bali is one of my favorite destination every time when someone write something about bali, I just read it to seek some info. Thanks mate for this great post, find some new places to explore, really appreciate.
Thanks Helen – very kind. The roads were amazing. I saw a mother picking up her 4 very young children on the same scooter which was a bit of an eye opener but then it’s just different to what we are used to at home and that is the point of travel!
Great article again Paul. I particularly liked the phrase, ‘Air-conditioning and metronomic public transport was replaced by humidity and an arcade-game-like attitude to road travel.’ – brilliant!