There is a specific category of “English Pub” that exists mostly in the imagination of Americans and the set designs of All Creatures Great and Small.
You know the type: a roaring log fire that smells of woodsmoke and wet Labrador; a flagstone floor worn smooth by 200 years of boots; and a menu that serves grouse shot on the moors that morning.
Usually, these places are a myth. But in the tiny hamlet of East Witton, Wensleydale, I found the real thing.
The Blue Lion Inn is a study in contradictions. It is a place where you can eat 3 AA Rosette food while wearing hiking boots.
It is a historic 1840 coaching inn that somehow feels like a modern luxury escape. And, crucially for me (and my border collie, Malc), it doesn’t just tolerate dogs—it practically builds the experience around them.
Here is my deep-dive review of why this might just be the best “Pub with Rooms” in North Yorkshire.
The Lowdown
The Journey & Location
East Witton is one of those “blink and you’ll miss it” villages, but you shouldn’t. It is essentially one long, beautiful village green flanked by cottages made of local stone.
Getting here is part of the decompression process. The drive takes you through the heart of the Dales.
- From London: It’s a hefty 4.5-hour drive, but once you hit the A1, it’s plain sailing until the final winding country lanes.
- From Manchester: A stunning 1.5 to 2-hour drive over the tops.
- From Birmingham: Allow about 2.5 hours.
Warning for EV Drivers: I cannot stress this enough. There are no chargers at the Inn. The nearest rapids are in Leyburn (Tennants or Aysgarth Falls). Do not arrive on 5% battery expecting a plug—you will be disappointed.
The Vibe: “Hunters & Hikers”
The building was originally a shooting lodge before becoming a pub in 1840, and it has never really let go of that identity.
The “Blue Lion” name comes from the crest of the Earls of Ailesbury , and the interior feels like a gentle nod to that feudal past.
The walls are lined with taxidermy (including a rather judgmental grouse) and oil paintings.
The floors in the bar are original flagstone. It is dark, cozy, and lit almost entirely by candlelight and the glow of the inglenook fireplace.
But what strikes you most is the lack of pretension.
You will see locals drinking pints of Black Sheep (brewed just down the road in Masham) standing next to couples from London celebrating their anniversary.
It’s a “muddy boots welcome” in the truest sense.
The Rooms: A Tale of Two Inns
When booking, you need to make a choice, because the rooms offer two very different vibes.
1. The Main House (The Historic Option)
I stayed in one of these. They are full of character—beams, wonky floors, and sash windows overlooking the village green. If you want to feel like you are sleeping in a Victorian novel, book here.
- Look for: Room 3 (Large Classic) for the antique furniture.
2. The Courtyard (The Luxury Option)
These are converted stables located across the cobbled yard. They were refurbished recently and feel more like boutique hotel suites.
- My Pick: Room 15 (“Serendipity”). This is the showstopper. It has a super-king bed, a massive walk-in wet room, and—crucially—a roll-top bath. It also has its own private little garden patio.
- Note: This specific room is pet-free, so if you bring the dog, you’ll be in one of the other Stable rooms (like Room 12, the Stable Master’s).
The Quirk: I have to mention the keys. They are attached to actual, full-sized cricket balls. It’s a nightmare to fit in your pocket, but impossible to lose. A brilliant bit of Yorkshire humor.
The “Clover” Standard: Dog Friendliness
Many hotels claim to be “dog-friendly” but banish you to a damp room in the annex and refuse to let you dine with your pet.
The Blue Lion is different. Their mascot is Clover, the owner’s dog, and they treat your dog like a paying guest.
- Dining: You can eat the full à la carte menu in the bar area with your dog. This is huge. It means you don’t have to compromise on the food experience just because you have the pup.
- The Welcome: We arrived to find a “doggie welcome pack” in the room—bowls, a blanket, and proper treats.
The Food: Why You’re Really Here
Let’s talk about the Twice-Baked Wensleydale Cheese Soufflé. 3
If you read nothing else, read this: Order the Soufflé.
It is one of the inn’s signature dish. It arrives bubbling, golden, and surrounded by a chive cream sauce.
It is light as air but rich as sin. It connects the plate directly to the landscape—Wensleydale cheese, made by the monks of Jervaulx Abbey originally, now at Wensleydale Creamery in Hawes, served a few miles from the source.
The Rest of the Menu:
- Awards: The kitchen holds 3 AA Rosettes, placing it in the top 10% of restaurants in the UK.
- Game: In season (August–December), the Grouse is hyper-local. As the staff say, it was probably “shot over the ridge you can see from the window”.
- Fish: Sourced from Hartlepool. The Smoked Haddock with poached egg is a permanent fixture because the locals riot if they try to take it off the menu.
- Breakfast: This is an event. Do not skip the “Lion Breakfast Muffin” (sausage patty, egg, bacon, cheese). It puts the fast-food version to shame.
Out and About: Walking it Off
You are in the walking capital of England. You need to earn that soufflé.
1. The Jervaulx Abbey Loop (9 miles)
This is a moderate walk that takes you from the pub door, through the woods to the ruins of Jervaulx Abbey.
The Abbey is privately owned and stunningly atmospheric—overgrown with wildflowers. It’s where Wensleydale cheese was invented!
2. The River Cover Stroll (2 miles)
For a quick morning dog walk, head down to the River Cover. It’s steep in places (stout shoes required), but the river gorge is beautiful.
3. The Middleham Gallops
Drive 5 minutes to Middleham. Before breakfast, you can watch hundreds of racehorses training on the moors. It’s a spectacle you won’t see anywhere else.
4. Cauldron Falls
Nearby in the village of West Burton there is a gem of a waterfall, Cauldron Falls. It is spectacular in any season.
The Verdict
The Blue Lion Inn manages that rare balancing act. It is polished enough for a romantic luxury break (especially if you snag Room 15), but grounded enough that you can laugh loudly at the bar with a pint of bitter.
It isn’t the cheapest night away in Yorkshire, and the lack of EV charging is a modern annoyance, but for the sheer quality of the food and the warmth of the welcome, it is worth every penny.
