Stepping Back in Time: A Guide to Hiking and Biking the Island of Sark

There are few places left in the world where the pace of life is dictated not by the morning commute, but by the tide, the wind, and the clip-clop of hooves. Sark is one of them.

Sitting just 80 miles off the south coast of England, this tiny jewel in the Channel Islands feels like a world apart.

It is a place where cars are banned, streetlights are non-existent, and the Milky Way forms a nightly canopy over your head.

If you are looking to disconnect, breathe in the freshest air imaginable, and explore a landscape that swings from pastoral beauty to rugged drama in the blink of an eye, you have found your destination.

Here is how to make the most of a trip to this unique island, from the “Toast Rack” ride to the vertigo-inducing crossing of La Coupée.

Arrival: The Toast Rack and the Tractor Bus

Your adventure begins the moment the ferry from Guernsey navigates the chop of the channel. As you pull into Maseline Harbour, you are met by sheer cliffs and a tunnel carved straight through the rock. But the real welcome is the transport.

Since cars are prohibited, you won’t find a line of taxis. Instead, you are greeted by the “Toast Rack”—a tractor towing a trailer with bench seating.

It’s the island’s version of a bus, and hopping onto it to chug up the steep Harbour Hill is a rite of passage for every visitor. It sets the tone immediately: slow down, look around, and enjoy the ride.

Getting Around: Bikes and Boots

Once you’ve reached the top of the hill and The Avenue (the island’s charming main street), it’s time to choose your steed.

For most, this means a bicycle. Sark is a cyclist’s dream, with “green lanes” free of traffic, lined with high hedgerows and wildflowers.

There are several cycle hire spots, like A to B Cycles or Avenue Cycle Hire, offering everything from standard bikes to e-bikes (which can be a blessing on the undulating terrain!).

If two wheels aren’t your thing, the island is small enough—about three miles long by one and a half miles wide—to explore entirely on foot. I love doing both.

The Great Divide: La Coupée

No visit to Sark is complete without facing La Coupée. This dramatic isthmus connects Big Sark to Little Sark and is, quite frankly, a geological marvel.

Imagine a concrete ridge, just three meters wide, with a sheer drop of 80 meters (260 feet) on either side. To your left and right, the sea crashes against the rocks below. It’s thrilling, beautiful, and a little terrifying.   

• Safety Tip: Cyclists must dismount here! The winds can be unpredictable, and the drop is unforgiving.   
• History: The concrete road was built by German Prisoners of War during the occupation in 1945. Before that, children living on Little Sark reportedly had to crawl across on their hands and knees during high winds to get to school!   

Hidden Gems of Little Sark: The Venus Pool

Once you’ve crossed La Coupée, you are in Little Sark. This southern tip of the island feels even more remote and wild. The prize here is the Venus Pool.

This natural rock pool is deep, crystal clear, and completely submerged at high tide. It is one of the best wild swimming spots in the British Isles, but it requires timing.

• When to go: You can only access it for two hours either side of low tide.   
• Getting there: It’s a bit of a scramble down the rocks (follow the cairns), but plunging into that cool, emerald water is worth every step. 

A Chocolate Stop

On your way back from Little Sark, you might notice a sweet aroma in the air. This is Caragh Chocolates, located just north of La Coupée. It’s a wonderful spot to rest your legs in their tea garden.

You can watch the chocolates being made in the kitchen—using rich Sark cream—and treat yourself to a hot chocolate or a box of handmade truffles. It’s the perfect fuel for the ride back to the village.

The West Coast: Windows and Views

Heading over to the west coast of Big Sark, you’ll find one of the most photogenic spots on the island: the Window in the Rock.

This isn’t a natural formation; it was blasted through the cliff in the 1850s on the orders of the Seigneur (the island’s feudal lord) to frame the view.

As you walk down the path, the rock face seems solid until you peer through the square aperture. Suddenly, you are presented with a stunning framed view of Les Autelets (The Altars)—jagged sea stacks rising majestically from the water.

A Touch of History and Horticulture: La Seigneurie

Sark’s history is unique. It was the last feudal state in Europe until 2008! The island is divided into 40 “Tenements,” a system established in 1565 by Helier de Carteret to ensure the island was defended against pirates.   

You can dive into this history at La Seigneurie, the ancestral home of the Seigneurs. While the house is private, the gardens are open to the public and are spectacular.

• Highlights: Explore the walled garden, get lost in the maze, and admire the rose gardens. There is also a newly renovated chapel that tells the story of the island’s ruling families.

Where to Eat: From Lobster to Cream Teas

Despite its size, Sark punches above its weight in food.

• La Sablonnerie: Located on Little Sark, this hotel and restaurant is legendary. Whether you want a full lobster lunch in the rose garden or a classic Sark cream tea, the atmosphere is pure magic.   
• Hathaway’s: Situated in the grounds of La Seigneurie, this is a great spot for a crab sandwich or a bistro-style dinner.   
• Nicole’s Restaurant: For a friendly, family-run vibe in the village, Nicole’s is a favorite, serving everything from local seafood to great curries. 

Dark Skies and Sheep Racing

If you stay overnight (and you should), you are in for a treat. Sark was the world’s first designated Dark Sky Island.

With no streetlights and no cars, the light pollution is non-existent. On a clear night, the Milky Way looks like a textured cloud stretching across the sky.   

And if you happen to visit in July, you might catch the Sark Sheep Racing. Yes, you read that right. It’s a highlight of the calendar where sheep, ridden by teddy bear jockeys, race down a track to the cheers of the locals.   

Practical Tips for the Baldhiker

1. Pack a Torch: Seriously. It gets dark.   
2. Check Tides: Essential for the Venus Pool and exploring caves.   
3. Say “Bonjhůr”: The locals are incredibly friendly. You might hear some Sercquiais (the local Norman dialect) being spoken. A cheerful “Bonjhůr” (Good day) goes a long way!   
4. Slow Down: Sark isn’t about ticking boxes; it’s about the feeling of the wind in your hair as you cycle down a lane, knowing the only traffic jam you’ll encounter is a horse and cart.

Sark isn’t just an island; it’s a deep breath for the soul. Whether you are hiking the cliffs, cycling the lanes, or just staring up at the stars, it stays with you long after you catch the boat back to the real world.