Mull is my favourite place in the world. So remote I hate even telling people where it is in case they decide to visit and this Hebridean island gets spoilt.
A chance holiday mix up meant my family and I found ourselves there 17 years ago, one blustery Easter. And we’ve not missed a year since. Indeed, it has become so deeply ingrained in the fabric of our lives that if anyone asks what my sisters and I would do if we won the lottery, we say ‘buy a house on Mull’, without hesitation.
So why do I love it so much? You could fly for miles and not find beaches so white and so untouched. A lone person on the beach means it’s crowded and a chance walk results in finding unexplored coves that probably haven’t been stepped on in a decade.
Mull is one of Scotland’s most enchanting islands, located in the Inner Hebrides. Known for its stunning landscapes, rich wildlife, and culture. Whether you’re looking for breathtaking hikes, serene beaches, or an exploration of local history, this island has something to offer everyone.
On Mull, it is easy to feel like you’re in a paradisiacal paradox of 28 Days Later – with no one left in the world but you. But of course, there are people.
Exploring the Island
Towns and Villages
Mull is home to several charming towns and villages, each with its own character and attractions. Tobermory, the island’s capital, (of Ballemory fame) is perhaps the most famous, known for its colorful waterfront buildings and bustling harbour. Here, you can explore local shops, galleries, and the Tobermory Distillery, where you can sample some fine Scottish whisky.
There is a brilliantly warm community, regular celidhs, local craft shops.
Other notable villages include Dervaig, with its picturesque scenery and historical sites, and Fionnphort, which serves as the gateway to the stunning island of Iona. Each village is unique and offers various opportunities for exploration, whether it’s through local shops, museums, or simply soaking in the atmosphere.
Natural Landscapes
The natural beauty of Mull is truly awe-inspiring. From rugged coastlines and dramatic cliffs to serene beaches and rolling hills, the island is a haven for nature lovers.
The primroses in the spring dot the mossy hills with butter yellow. Hebridean cows have fringes worthy of any Emo.
Head to the Ross of Mull for the bedfellows of beauty and remoteness. Walks along sheep tracks around dramatic headland that nearly always involve (if you’re led by someone like my dad) a nail-biting sea traverse and breathtaking views of islands out at sea that change colour in the light.
The Treshnish Isles, located just off the coast, provide breathtaking views and are home to an array of birdlife, including puffins during the breeding season.
Don’t miss the opportunity to visit the iconic Duart Castle, which towers over the sea and offers stunning views of the surrounding area.
You can take a short ferry ride to the ruins of Shiaba (meaning six cows in Gaelic); all that is left of a community wiped out by the clearances in the 1800s.
Ben More, Mull’s only Munro, is worth every leg-aching step; when you summit along a snowy ridge you’re standing on the edge of beyond, with mountains petering away underfoot like the fleeting feet of ballet dancers as the Sugar Plum Fairy takes the stage.
The island is also dotted with numerous walking trails that lead to hidden gems, including secluded beaches and panoramic viewpoints.
Wildlife Encounters
The island is particularly renowned for its birdlife, with over 250 species recorded here. One of the most impressive sights is the majestic sea eagle, the largest bird of prey in the UK. With its impressive wingspan and distinctive white tail feathers, spotting a sea eagle in flight is a truly unforgettable experience.
In addition to sea eagles, Mull is also home to a variety of other bird species, including puffins, guillemots, and razorbills.
Other wildlife you might encounter includes otters, deer, and a variety of marine life, including dolphins, seals and even basking sharks.
Reminiscing
At the end of a family day exploring Mull, we snuggle up, play cards and nibble on the veritable deluge of cakes my mum prepares for the trip.
There is no internet, no phone signal, no TV. Away from the mod-cons and secure in the familiarity of the island and the wonderful people I’m with, it is the one place I truly relax, stretch out into the space.
My heart fills with longing just thinking about it and surely that is what travelling is all about? Finding those magical places that you take with you wherever you go?
Getting There
Travel Options to Mull
Reaching Mull may require a bit of planning, but the journey is well worth it. Most visitors arrive via ferry from the mainland, with the most common route being from Oban to Craignish. Oban is easily accessible by train or car from Glasgow and other major Scottish cities.
The ferry, operated by Caledonian MacBrayne (CalMac), offers a scenic crossing that takes approximately 45 minutes and provides breathtaking views of the surrounding islands. For those traveling from further afield, Glasgow International Airport is the nearest major airport, and from there, you can rent a car or take a train to Oban.
For those travelling from the Ardnamurchan peninsula, a ferry operates from Kilchoan to Tobermory. This option provides a scenic approach to Mull’s colorful main town. This route you cannot book in advance.
Best Time to Visit
The best time to visit Mull is during the warmer months, typically from late spring to early autumn (May to September). This period offers the most favourable weather conditions, with longer daylight hours and milder temperatures, making it ideal for outdoor activities.
If you’re a wildlife enthusiast, visiting during the summer months increases your chances of spotting various species, including puffins and seals.
Local Cuisine
Delicious Local Specialties
No visit to Mull would be complete without indulging in its local cuisine. The island is known for its fresh seafood, which is abundant due to its coastal location. Dishes featuring locally caught fish, shellfish, and seafood platters are must-tries. Mull’s renowned oysters and mussels are a particular highlight, often served in local restaurants.
In addition to seafood, the island also produces excellent lamb and beef, thanks to its lush pastures. Visitors can savour traditional Scottish dishes made with local ingredients, such as haggis, neeps, and tatties, offering an authentic taste of the region. Don’t forget to try the island’s artisanal cheeses and locally brewed beers as well!
Best Restaurants and Cafés
Mull offers a range of dining options, from casual cafés to fine dining establishments. The Tobermory Fish Company is a popular choice for fresh, locally caught seafood, while Café Fish offers a delightful menu with a focus on sustainability. For a more relaxed atmosphere, visit the Mishnish Bar, which features local ales and hearty pub fare.
Other notable spots include the Bellachroy Hotel in Dervaig, which serves up traditional Scottish fare, and the Isle of Mull Cheese Shop, where you can sample a variety of local cheeses.
Accommodation Options
Charming Hotels and B&Bs
Mull provides a variety of accommodation options to suit different preferences and budgets. For those seeking comfort, there are several charming hotels, such as the Tobermory Hotel, which offers cozy rooms. The Glenforsa Hotel, located on the island’s west coast, is another excellent choice, known for its friendly service and stunning location.
Bed and breakfasts are also widely available, providing a more intimate experience with a chance to connect with local hosts. Many B&Bs feature locally sourced breakfasts, showcasing the island’s culinary delights.
Pennygate Lodge: Pennygate Lodge is a cozy guesthouse situated in the heart of Craignure village. With comfortable rooms, friendly staff, and a convenient location, it’s an ideal base for exploring the island.
For those looking for something a bit different, Mull offers unique lodging options, including self-catering cottages and eco-friendly lodges. Staying in a cottage can provide a home-away-from-home experience, allowing you to cook your meals and enjoy the tranquility of the island.
Additionally, glamping options are available for those who want to immerse themselves in nature while enjoying a touch of comfort.
Calgary Bay Wild Camping: For an adventurous experience, consider wild camping at Calgary Bay. This beautiful sandy beach offers stunning views and a chance to connect with nature on the remote west coast of Mull.
Conclusion
Mull is an extraordinary island that offers a perfect blend of natural beauty, rich wildlife, and cultural experiences. Whether you are an adventurer, a nature lover, or a cultural enthusiast, this Hebridean gem has something for everyone.
From exploring breathtaking landscapes to indulging in delicious local cuisine, every moment spent on Mull is sure to create lasting memories. So go on, visit, I urge you. Just don’t tell anyone else about it. Please.
FAQs
What is the best way to get around Mull?
The best way to explore Mull is by car, as this gives you the freedom to visit remote areas and enjoy the stunning landscapes at your own pace. Alternatively, there are local buses available, though they may not reach all areas of the island.
What wildlife can I expect to see on Mull?
Mull is home to a diverse array of wildlife. Visitors can expect to see sea eagles, otters, red deer, and various seabirds. Boat tours may also offer the chance to see dolphins, porpoises, and seals.
Is Mull family-friendly?
Absolutely! Mull is a great destination for families, with plenty of outdoor activities, wildlife encounters, and educational experiences. Many accommodations also cater to families, making it a welcoming environment for travellers of all ages.
Ready for the Hebrides (and waiting for August)
awesome 🙂
Paradise indeed!
Paradise. I may just have to follow in your footsteps.
That is a truly stunning last photo. Beautiful.
I totally understand where you’re coming from. I just came back from a two week visit to Istanbul, and there I constantly felt the urge to get out and walk and explore every day. No cars, no buses, no bikes. Just walk for hours and hours, up steep hills and along winding alleys, enjoying and savoring each moment. Coming back to the US has been a jolt!