Peterborough Cathedral: A Complete Visitor’s Guide to England’s Resilient Masterpiece

For years, Peterborough Cathedral was a magnificent silhouette on the horizon, a landmark I’d glimpse from the A1(M) or the ring road on journeys south.

Its three great arches and towering spires dominated the flat Fenland landscape, a constant, silent invitation to discover what lay within its ancient walls.

Like many, I had often wondered about the stories held inside that incredible building. Finally taking the time to step out of the car and walk through its precincts was a revelation.

This is not just another English cathedral; it is one of Europe’s finest and most intact Norman masterpieces, a site that has been a centre of Christian worship for over 1,300 years.  

But to truly understand Peterborough Cathedral is to know its story is one of profound resilience. This is a survivor.

Founded in the Anglo-Saxon kingdom of Mercia, it was utterly destroyed by Vikings, reborn, then ravaged by a catastrophic fire.

It was ingeniously spared from destruction by King Henry VIII during the Dissolution of the Monasteries, only to be desecrated by Cromwell’s troops during the English Civil War.

Each time, it rose again. A visit here is not just a walk through a beautiful building; it’s a journey through a history of defiance, faith, and rebirth that is etched into every stone.

The Unforgettable West Front: A Gothic Enigma in Stone

Your first proper encounter with the Cathedral is an experience that stops you in your tracks. The West Front is unlike anything else in England.

Three colossal Gothic arches, each soaring to the same height, form a gigantic, deeply recessed porch. It’s an architectural statement of such boldness and originality that it has no direct precedent and no real successor.

Architecturally, this is known as an Early English Gothic “screen front,” built between 1200 and 1222, which effectively masks the simpler Norman facade behind it.

For centuries, its design has divided opinion. Some have found the effect “jarring, almost grotesque,” a chaotic mix of styles.

Others, however, see it as one of the most brilliant achievements of Gothic architecture in the country, a composition whose proportions are said to be based on the principles of classical music.  

This architectural hybridity is precisely what makes the Cathedral so compelling. It is not a static monument built in a single vision, but a dynamic dialogue in stone between different eras.

The Norman builders laid the foundation, and a century later, the Gothic masons added this audacious, theatrical entrance. Look up at the gables to see the weathered statues of St. Peter, St. Paul, and St. Andrew, the Cathedral’s dedicated saints, who have watched over this city for centuries.

Standing before it, you are not just looking at a building; you are reading a timeline carved in stone.

Inside the Cathedral: A Journey Through 900 Years of Wonders

Stepping through the original 13th-century wooden doors, the scale and serenity of the interior are immediately calming.

The air is cool, the light is soft, and the sheer length of the building draws your eye eastward towards the high altar.

The best way to experience the Cathedral’s treasures is to walk through them as generations have before, discovering its stories one by one.

The Nave and its Miraculous Ceiling

The nave is a masterpiece of Anglo-Norman architecture. A forest of massive, round arches marches down its length, creating a powerful sense of rhythm and stability.

But the true marvel is above you. Look up to see the breathtaking painted wooden ceiling. Completed between 1230 and 1250, this ceiling is a priceless artistic treasure.

It is the only original 13th-century nave ceiling of its kind to survive in Britain and one of only four in the whole of Europe.

Its diamond-shaped panels depict saints, kings, bishops, and mythical beasts, a vibrant tapestry of medieval imagination.

Though it has been repainted twice in its long life, it retains the character and style of the original artists. It is a miracle that it has survived fires, wars, and the passage of 800 years.

A Tale of Two Queens: Royal Tombs and Tudor Drama

Peterborough holds the unique distinction of having been the burial place of two of history’s most famous queens. Their stories are a poignant reminder of the Cathedral’s role at the heart of national events.

Katharine of Aragon (1485-1536): In the north aisle lies the tomb of Katharine of Aragon, the steadfast first wife of King Henry VIII. After years of being sidelined for a new queen, Anne Boleyn, Katharine was exiled and died at nearby Kimbolton Castle.

She was buried here in 1536. It is often said that Henry VIII’s decision to elevate the abbey church to cathedral status in 1541 was partly a gesture to ensure his former queen rested in a suitably grand location.

Her tomb, draped with the flags of England and Spain, is still honoured by visitors who leave flowers and pomegranates—her personal symbol.

The simple inscription is a powerful final word on her life: “Katharine, Queen of England,” a title she was cruelly denied at the time of her death.  

Please note: As of late 2025, access to Katharine’s tomb is restricted due to scaffolding for essential plasterwork repairs. Please check the Cathedral’s website for the latest updates before your visit.

Mary, Queen of Scots (1542-1587): Opposite Katharine’s tomb, a memorial marks the original resting place of another tragic queen.

After her execution at nearby Fotheringhay Castle in 1587, Mary, Queen of Scots was interred here. Her body remained at Peterborough for 25 years until 1612, when her son, King James I of England, had her remains exhumed and moved to a magnificent tomb in Westminster Abbey.

The New Building: A Fan-Vaulted Finale

As you move to the easternmost end of the Cathedral, the sturdy, rounded Norman architecture gives way to a space of breathtaking light and complexity.

This is the “New Building,” a late-Perpendicular addition constructed between 1496 and 1508. Its ceiling is a dizzying web of fan vaulting, one of the finest and most intricate examples in the entire country.

This elegant space was designed by John Wastell, the same master architect responsible for the world-famous King’s College Chapel in Cambridge, and you can see the same genius at work in the delicate stone tracery that fans out across the ceiling.

The Hedda Stone: A Solemn Link to a Saxon Past

Tucked away in an alcove is perhaps the Cathedral’s most precious and ancient object: the Hedda Stone. This beautifully carved block of limestone dates from around 800 AD and is the only significant surviving artifact from the original Anglo-Saxon monastery, known as Medeshamstede.

This solemn stone is a tangible link to the Cathedral’s first great trial. It is believed to be a memorial to the abbot and monks who were slaughtered during the Viking invasion of 870 AD, which saw the complete destruction of the first monastery on this site.

To look upon its interlaced carvings is to connect with a community silenced over a thousand years ago.  

More Treasures to Discover

• Old Scarlett’s Portrait: Near the West Door, look for the charming portrait of Robert Scarlett, the sexton who died in 1594 at the age of 98. His claim to fame is that he buried two queens in the Cathedral: Katharine of Aragon and Mary, Queen of Scots.  
• The Choir Stalls: The intricately carved wooden stalls you see today are magnificent Victorian replacements. The original medieval stalls were destroyed by Oliver Cromwell’s Parliamentary troops during the Civil War, a period when much of the Cathedral’s stained glass and religious imagery was also lost.  
• The 13th-Century Font: The simple, elegant baptismal font is carved from a single piece of Alwalton marble. It has its own survival story: it was lost for many years after the Civil War and was eventually rediscovered being used as a flower container in a local garden before being returned to its rightful place.  
• St Oswald’s Chapel: In the South Transept, this chapel once housed one of the most important relics in medieval England: the arm of St Oswald, a 7th-century king and martyr. You can still see the unusual watchtower where a monk would have stood guard over the precious relic day and night.  

Planning Your Perfect Visit: A Practical Guide

Peterborough Cathedral is welcoming and easy to navigate, but a little planning will help you make the most of your day. Here is all the essential information you need for a smooth and memorable visit.

Visitor Information at a Glance

This table provides a quick summary of the most important details for planning your trip.

Feature	Details
Opening Hours	Monday–Saturday: 10:00 am – 5:00 pm; Sunday: 12:00 noon – 3:00 pm. Always check the official website for closures due to services or events.
Entry Fee	Entry is by donation. Your contribution is vital for the upkeep of this historic building. Contactless and cash options are available.
Highlights Tour	A one-hour, ground-level guided tour covering key features. Costs £6 per person. Booking in advance online is recommended.
Upper Levels & Tower Tour	A strenuous two-hour tour with spectacular views. Costs £16 per person. Age (8+) and health restrictions apply. Not suitable for those with mobility issues or a fear of heights/enclosed spaces.
Contact & Website	Email: info@peterborough-cathedral.org.uk / Phone: 01733 355315 / Website: peterborough-cathedral.org.uk

Getting to Peterborough Cathedral

By Train: Peterborough is exceptionally well-connected by rail, making it an easy day trip from many parts of the UK. The journey from London King’s Cross can take as little as 43 minutes, and there are direct services from Leeds, Birmingham, Edinburgh, and other major cities.

The Cathedral is just a pleasant 10-minute walk from Peterborough station.  

By Car: If driving, the city is easily accessible via the A1(M) and A47. There is no public parking within the Cathedral grounds, but several large public car parks are located just a short walk away.

Parking Near Peterborough Cathedral

Parking in the city centre is plentiful. The closest and most convenient options are run by the council.

Car Park	Postcode	Approx. Walk	Key Features
Car Haven	PE1 1YX	5-8 mins	A large surface car park, very convenient for both the Cathedral and the Museum.
Riverside	PE1 1EG	5-8 mins	A surface car park located close to the River Nene and the Key Theatre.
Bishop’s Road	PE1 1YZ	8-10 mins	A multistorey car park, often a good option for longer stays.

Conclusion

A visit to Peterborough Cathedral is a profound experience. You may arrive as a tourist, drawn by the promise of magnificent architecture, but you will leave as a witness to an epic story of survival.

To stand beneath its unique 13th-century painted ceiling is to feel the weight of 800 years of history above you. To walk its stone floors is to trace the footsteps of monks, the shadows of two tragic queens, and the soldiers who once sought to tear it down.

This is not a building that has simply aged gracefully; it has endured. It has been ravaged by Vikings, consumed by fire, threatened by a king’s decree, and desecrated in civil war, yet its spirit remains unbroken.  

But Peterborough Cathedral is no sterile museum piece. It is a living, breathing testament to the Benedictine values of hospitality and service that were first established on this site over a millennium ago.

It continues to serve its community not just as a historical monument, but as an active place of worship, reflection, and welcome for all.  

The story of its resilience is not confined to the past. The work of preserving this masterpiece is a constant, ongoing effort.

The recent grant to repair the historic Laurel Court within its precincts is a powerful reminder that this is a legacy actively being protected for the future.

A visit here, and the donation you make, does more than just support the memory of what was; it contributes to the vibrant future of this truly incredible landmark.

I wholeheartedly encourage you to step through those great Gothic arches, to look up in wonder, and to discover this defiant, beautiful, and enduring survivor for yourself.