Waitby School: A Boutique Historic Getaway on the Cumbrian Fells

Sometimes you find a place that manages to be two things at once. It feels miles from anywhere, perched alone on a windy fell, yet it is packed with the kind of 5-star luxury you usually only find in a city boutique hotel.

Waitby School, near Kirkby Stephen, is exactly that.

Situated on a hill in the Eden Valley—that quiet, beautiful slice of England sandwiched between the Lake District and the Yorkshire Dales—this isn’t your average holiday cottage. As the name suggests, it used to be the village school.

I stayed here to see if you can really turn a 17th-century place of learning into a luxury home without losing its soul. (Spoiler: You can, and the underfloor heating definitely helps).

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The History: From School Bell to Doorbell

The moment you pull up to the dry-stone wall that surrounds the property, you realize this building has a story.

It sits alone, surrounded by grazing sheep, with uninterrupted views of the fells.

It was founded in 1680 by a local man, James Highmore, to educate the “poor children of Waitby and Smardale.”

The building you see today was rebuilt in 1868, and it served as the local school until 1910.

What I love is that the owners haven’t scrubbed this history away.

• The Bell: The original school bell is still perched on the roof.
• The Coat Hooks: In the vestibule (now a boot room), the original ceramic coat pegs remain at child-height. It’s a poignant reminder of the generations of Cumbrian kids who learned to read and write in this very room.
• The “Lavvy”: In a stroke of genius, the original outside “boys’ lavatory” has been converted into the log store for the wood burner. A very practical upgrade!

The Living Space: A Lesson in Luxury

The main living area occupies the old schoolroom, and it is spectacular. Instead of inserting a floor to cram in more rooms, they’ve kept the double-height ceiling, giving it a grand, airy feel.

But unlike the drafty schoolroom of the 1800s, this one is toasty. They’ve installed underfloor heating beneath solid oak floorboards, and there’s a large wood-burning stove in the original hearth.

The kitchen is a highlight for me. It features worktops made from Buttermere slate (a lovely nod to the nearby Lakes) and is fully equipped with everything you need to cook a proper meal.

Because let’s be honest, once you are up here on the fell, you might not want to leave.

The Rooms: Sleeping in the Eaves

The cottage sleeps up to seven people, but the layout is clever, offering privacy for different groups.

1. The Master Suite (Ground Floor): This is the showstopper. It has French doors opening directly onto the garden (perfect for morning coffee) and an en-suite with a whirlpool bath. If you’ve spent the day hiking Nine Standards Rigg, this bath is essential equipment.
2. Bedroom 2 (First Floor): A double room with great views of the fells and a handmade bed.
3. Bedroom 3 (First Floor): This sits in the eaves and has three single beds. It feels a bit like a luxury dormitory—kids absolutely love it.

The “No Pets” Rule: A Sanctuary for Some

It is important to note that Waitby School is strictly No Pets.

While I usually travel with my border collie, I understand why this rule exists here.

The house is filled with high-end fabrics (velour throws, silk curtains) and light oak floors. Plus, the property is surrounded by working sheep farms.

For guests with allergies who often struggle to find “pet-free” rental properties that are genuinely dander-free, this place is a sanctuary. It is spotless.

Tech & Practicalities

Usually, “remote historic cottage” means “terrible signal.” Not here.

• Internet: Surprisingly, they have installed Fibre Broadband (up to 147 Mbps). If you need to do a “workcation” or just stream a movie on the Bose sound system, you are covered.
• EV Charging: This is a huge bonus. They have a dedicated EV charger for guests. In rural Cumbria, charging points can be scarce, so being able to charge overnight means you start every day with a full “tank.”

Out and About: Smardale & The Viaducts

You are perfectly positioned here. You are technically in the Yorkshire Dales National Park (since the boundary extension), but the Lake District is just a short drive west.

However, you don’t need to drive to find amazing walks.

• Smardale Gill Nature Reserve: Just down the road, this reserve is a hidden gem managed by the Cumbria Wildlife Trust. It’s one of the few places in England where you can still see Red Squirrels and the rare Scotch Argus butterfly.
• The Viaducts: You can walk along the old railway line to see the Smardale Gill Viaduct. It’s a dramatic Victorian structure that spans the valley—a perfect flat walk if your legs are tired from the fells.

Where to Eat

Since it’s self-catering, you’ll likely cook, but if you fancy a pint or a meal out:

• Kirkby Stephen (1.5 miles): Has plenty of shops, a grocer, and the L’al Nook micro-pub.
• Nateby: The Black Bull is a solid local pub offering hearty Cumbrian food.
• Ravenstonedale: A short drive away is The Black Swan, a proper gastro-pub that’s worth the trip.

The Verdict

Waitby School is a rare find. It balances the “middle of nowhere” feeling with the connectivity and comfort of a modern city apartment.

It’s not for everyone—if you have a dog, you’ll need to look elsewhere. But if you want to wake up to the sound of curlews, hike all day in the Eden Valley, and come back to a whirlpool bath and a high-speed movie night, it is pretty much perfect.

Baldhiker Rating: 5/5 (For the history, the views, and that whirlpool bath).