Some trips are meticulously planned, booked months in advance with detailed itineraries. And some, the ones that often stick with you the longest, begin with a rainy weekend and a spontaneous decision to just get in the car and go.
That’s how I first found myself wandering the cobbled streets of Kingston-upon-Hull years ago, a promise to my family finally fulfilled on a whim.
I remember being captivated by the raw, authentic atmosphere of the marina and the layers of history whispering from every brick in the Old Town.
But in the years since, the whispers about Hull have grown into a confident roar. The city I explored has been on a remarkable journey, stepping out of the shadows and into the national spotlight as the UK City of Culture in 2017.
This wasn’t just a year-long party; it was a catalyst, a moment that injected £220 million of investment and an incredible surge of civic pride into its veins. It changed, as one report put it, Hull’s very “position in the national consciousness”.
So, I had to go back. This time, it wasn’t a spontaneous trip but a deliberate pilgrimage to see what happens when a city with such a deep, unshakeable sense of self decides to reinvent its future.
I wanted to walk those same streets and see them with new eyes, to peel back the layers of this unique port city—from its maritime soul to its polished cultural present—and discover why Hull has become one of the UK’s most compelling and underestimated destinations.
The Heart of the Waterfront: Hull Marina Reimagined
My return journey began where the last one did: at the water’s edge. Hull Marina, a sprawling basin where the Humber and Railway Docks converge, is the city’s historic heart, and it beats with a new, vibrant rhythm.
Where I remembered a quiet, atmospheric harbour, I now found a bustling waterfront alive with the gentle clinking of yacht masts and the cheerful hum of people gathered at stylish cafes and restaurants lining the promenade.
Dominating the view, as it always has, is the magnificent Spurn Lightship. Its brilliant red hull is a powerful, unmissable symbol of the city’s seafaring heritage—a silent guardian that once guided vessels through the treacherous Humber Estuary.
On my last visit, I’d promised myself I’d step aboard one day. That day will have to wait just a little longer, as I discovered the lightship is currently undergoing a meticulous restoration, part of the ambitious city-wide “Hull Maritime” project.
This isn’t a disappointment; it’s tangible proof of Hull’s renewed commitment to preserving its incredible story. When it reopens in spring 2026, alongside a transformed Maritime Museum.
Nearby, the poignant memorial to those lost at sea still stops you in your tracks. A circular metal structure with an ethereal blue light at its core, its inscribed names are a heart-wrenching reminder of the price this city has paid to the waves.
But the marina is not just a place of solemn memory. Just a few steps away, the past and future collide in the most exciting way. The old Fruit Market, once the domain of traders and wholesalers, has been reborn as Hull’s creative quarter.
This is the new Hull in a nutshell: historic warehouses now house independent galleries like the Humber Street Gallery, artisan coffee shops, and studios, their brick walls a canvas for vibrant street art.
Walking from the timeless reflections in the marina’s water to the contemporary buzz of Humber Street is to walk through the story of Hull’s regeneration itself—a seamless blend of gritty heritage and creative optimism.
A Walk Through Time: Navigating Hull’s Historic Old Town
To truly understand Hull, you have to leave the open skies of the waterfront and plunge into the labyrinthine embrace of its Old Town.
The best way to do this is to follow your feet—or, even better, to follow the fish. The Hull Fish Trail is a brilliantly quirky, self-guided tour created in 1992: a series of 41 sculptures of fish, from a tiny anchovy to a ten-foot ray, embedded in the city’s pavements.
It’s a playful thread that leads you through centuries of history, with a delightful sense of humour—look for the “plaice” in the old Market Place, the “shark” outside a former bank, and the “electric eel” near a substation.
The trail inevitably leads you to a site of national importance: the excavated remains of Beverley Gate.
It was here, in 1642, that one of the most pivotal moments of the English Civil War unfolded. King Charles I, seeking to secure the city’s vast arsenal, was famously denied entry by the Parliamentarian governor, Sir John Hotham.
This act of defiance was one of the first open rebellions against the crown, a spark that helped ignite a war that would change Britain forever. Standing here, you can feel the weight of that decision, a testament to Hull’s long-standing independent and rebellious streak.
From this story of division, the trail guides you down the cobbled High Street to a story of unity and freedom.
Here stands Wilberforce House, the birthplace of William Wilberforce. As Hull’s MP, he dedicated his life to one of the greatest moral crusades in history: the abolition of the slave trade.
His tireless campaign, which began in these very streets, led to the Slave Trade Act of 1807 and eventually the abolition of slavery across the British Empire.
Hull’s connection to this global story of social justice gives its historic streets a resonance that few other cities can claim.
Looming over the Old Town is the magnificent Hull Minster. Once known as Holy Trinity Church, this breathtaking Gothic structure is not a cathedral, but it is England’s largest parish church by area.
Its sheer scale is awe-inspiring, a sanctuary of stone and stained glass that has stood for over 700 years. For a truly unforgettable experience, I highly recommend booking one of the Minster’s Tower Tours, which offers staggering panoramic views across the city’s rooftops to the wide, brown expanse of the Humber.
No walk through Hull’s Old Town would be complete without seeking refuge in its legendary pubs, many of which are part of the city’s official Ale Trail.
I ducked into Ye Olde White Harte, a 16th-century pub tucked away down a narrow alley. It’s famous for its “plotting parlour,” the room where the decision to refuse the king entry to Hull was allegedly made.
A short stroll away is The George Hotel, a 17th-century coaching inn that proudly boasts England’s smallest window—a tiny slit just inches wide.
And then there’s Ye Olde Black Boy, which, dating back to at least 1729, holds the title of Hull’s oldest licensed pub, its cosy interior warmed by an open fire.
These aren’t just pubs; they are living museums, each pint pulled a connection to centuries of history.
Hull’s Cultural Renaissance: More Than Meets the Eye
One of the most remarkable things about Hull’s cultural offering is how accessible it is. The city’s Museums Quarter, nestled in the heart of the Old Town, is home to a trio of world-class attractions that are, incredibly, completely free to enter.
This concentration of culture makes for a perfect day of discovery, whatever the weather.
I started at the Streetlife Museum of Transport, which is far more than just a collection of old vehicles. It’s an immersive journey into the past, where you can stroll down a reconstructed 1940s high street, peer into period shops, and even experience the gentle sway of a carriage ride, complete with authentic sounds and smells.
Next door, the Hull and East Riding Museum takes you on an even grander journey—235 million years of local history, to be precise.
Here, you can come face-to-face with a life-sized woolly mammoth, walk through a stunning Roman villa with intricate mosaics, and explore an Iron Age village.
The third jewel in the crown is Wilberforce House, which provides a deep and moving exploration of the transatlantic slave trade and Wilberforce’s pivotal role in its abolition.
Back out on the waterfront, at the very tip of Victoria Pier, stands a sculpture that captured my imagination on my first visit and still holds a powerful allure.
‘Voyage’ is a stark, greenish-blue figure of a person, perched on a high plinth, gazing out towards the sea. It looks in the direction that thousands of Hull’s trawlermen sailed towards the treacherous fishing grounds of Iceland.
The sculpture has a twin in the Icelandic village of Vik, and together they symbolise the deep, thousand-year bond of trade and shared seafaring heritage between the two communities.
It’s a tribute to those who braved the waves, a memorial for those who never returned, and a quiet acknowledgment of the bitter “Cod Wars” that strained, but never broke, that historic connection.
Just as I stumbled upon hidden gems on my first trip, I was delighted to rediscover Zebedee’s Yard. What I once found as a curiously named car park has now fully embraced its destiny as one of the city’s premier outdoor event spaces.
Throughout the summer, this historic courtyard hosts major concerts and festivals, including the renowned Freedom Festival and the “Live From The Yard” series, drawing huge names and cementing Hull’s reputation as a vibrant cultural hub.
It’s yet another example of the city’s evolution—a space transformed from a quiet corner into a beating heart of modern culture.
Planning Your Hull Adventure: A Practical Guide
One of Hull’s greatest assets is how easy it is to explore. The core of the city, encompassing the marina, Fruit Market, and Old Town, is compact and wonderfully walkable.
Here’s a quick guide to help you plan your own journey of discovery.
Getting There and Around
Hull’s Paragon Interchange is the central hub for both trains and buses, placing you right in the heart of the action and just a 10-minute walk from the Old Town.
Local bus services are frequent and can take you to all major attractions, including a direct service to The Deep aquarium.
Parking
If you’re driving, parking is plentiful and reasonably priced.
For the Old Town and Museums Quarter, the Tower Street car park (HU1 1TU) is perfectly located and offers a fantastic flat rate of just £1 for the entire day on Sundays.
Other good options include the multi-storey car parks at King William House and George Street.
A City That Always Offers More
As my trip drew to a close, I found myself echoing the sentiment from my original visit all those years ago: there’s always something new to see in Hull.
The city has transformed in countless ways, its confidence renewed and its cultural landscape richer than ever. Yet, its core identity remains unchanged.
This is still a city that faces the sea, a place of resilience and independence, its character shaped by the tides and the tales of those who have sailed from its harbour.
It’s a city where you can stand on the spot a king was defied, walk in the footsteps of a world-changing abolitionist, and then sit in a modern gallery sipping a flat white. It’s a place that has not just preserved its history but has woven it into the fabric of a dynamic, forward-looking present.
My spontaneous weekend trip turned into a love for a city’s story, and this return visit has only deepened that affection. It was a lovely day out, and a return visit is, once again, certainly guaranteed.
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