Over the last few years, the City of Durham has become one of my favourite regular haunts.
When I travel and chat with people, I hear all about city breaks to the usual hotspots, but I always find myself saying, “You absolutely have to go to Durham!”. It is true, and I have found myself saying it too now.
It’s a city that packs a serious punch, full of character, history, and hidden gems for every kind of traveller.
Dominated by the magnificent silhouette of its Norman Cathedral and Castle, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Durham is a place where history isn’t just in museums—it’s etched into every cobbled lane and breathtaking riverside path.
Planning the perfect UK city break can feel a bit overwhelming. That’s why I’ve poured all my experiences into this definitive guide.
Whether you have 48 hours or a long weekend, this is your blueprint to discovering the very best of this North East England gem, from its world-famous landmarks to its secret local favourites.
Inside, you’ll find a complete 2-day itinerary, essential planning tips, my top picks for where to eat and drink, accommodation advice, and so much more. Let’s get planning!
Durham Weekend Break at a Glance
For those who just want the highlights, here’s a quick summary to get you started.
|
Planning Factor |
My Recommendation & Key Details (UK Context) |
|---|---|
|
Best Time to Visit |
May-June & September-October for lovely weather and fewer crowds. |
|
Ideal Duration |
2 full days is perfect for hitting the city’s main highlights on a first visit. |
|
Getting There |
Train: East Coast Main Line (direct from London/Edinburgh), with that iconic viaduct view! Car: A1(M). |
|
Getting Around |
The city centre is compact and made for walking. Seriously, pack comfy shoes! |
|
Average Budget |
Mid-range: £150-£250 per person, per day (excluding your hotel). |
|
Must-See Sights |
Durham Cathedral & Castle, the incredible UNESCO World Heritage Site. |
|
Top Experience |
The iconic riverside walk around the peninsula for those classic Cathedral views. |
|
Local Currency |
Pound Sterling (£). Contactless is everywhere, but I always carry a bit of cash for markets or small pubs. |
The Essential Durham Weekend Planner
A little bit of planning goes a long way. Here are the answers to the questions I always get asked, designed to make your trip smooth and stress-free.
When is the best time to visit?
Honestly, Durham is a stunner year-round, but for the best experience, I’d aim for late spring (May-June) or early autumn (September-October).
The weather is usually mild, and you miss the peak summer tourist rush.
How long should I stay?
A two-day weekend is the perfect amount of time to see the main sights without feeling rushed.
You can comfortably explore the cathedral, castle, and riverside, with plenty of time for food and drink stops.
How do I get to Durham?
- By Train: This is my favourite way to arrive. Durham is a major stop on the East Coast Main Line, with direct trains from London King’s Cross and Edinburgh. The best part? The breathtaking view of the cathedral and castle as your train crosses the Victorian viaduct—it’s a truly iconic welcome.
- By Car: If you’re driving, Durham is easily accessible from the A1(M). A word of advice: use the city’s Park and Ride services. Parking in the historic centre is very limited and can be pricey.
- By Air: The nearest airport is Newcastle International (NCL), about a 40-minute drive or a quick train journey away.
How do I get around the city?
On your own two feet! Durham’s city centre is wonderfully compact, with all the main attractions clustered together.
Comfortable walking shoes are an absolute must for navigating the charming (but sometimes steep!) cobbled streets.
For anything further afield, like the Botanic Garden, local buses are readily available.
What should I budget?
Remember to budget in pounds sterling (£).
A key difference from London is that many of Durham’s major attractions, like the cathedral, have entry fees, unlike the free national museums in the capital.
For train travel, book your tickets about 12 weeks in advance to get the best fares—they can be expensive otherwise!
What should I pack?
Prepare for classic English weather!
Layers are your best friend. I never visit without comfortable walking shoes and a waterproof jacket, even in summer. A sudden rain shower is all part of the experience!
A Perfect 48-Hour Durham Itinerary
Here’s my tried-and-tested itinerary for a perfect weekend. It’s a great mix of iconic sights, hidden gems, and fantastic food.
Day 1: History, Cobbled Streets & Riverside Charm
Morning (9:00 AM) РBreakfast and Cobbled Streets. Start your day in the heart of the city. Head straight for Flat White Kitchen, a fantastic independent caf̩ in a 17th-century townhouse.
Their coffee and brunch are legendary, but be warned—it’s popular, so you might have a short wait. It’s worth it!
Late Morning (10:30 AM) – The UNESCO World Heritage Site. Time for the main event! Dedicate the rest of the morning to Durham’s magnificent UNESCO World Heritage Site.
First, explore Durham Cathedral. This masterpiece of Norman architecture is simply awe-inspiring. Don’t miss the Cloisters (a filming location for Harry Potter!) and, if you’re feeling energetic, climb the 325 steps of the central tower. The panoramic views are unbeatable.
Next, walk across the beautiful Palace Green to Durham Castle. To really understand its incredible history, I highly recommend joining a guided tour. You can read all about my visit in my complete guide to exploring Durham Castle – The Palace of The Prince Bishops.
Lunch (1:00 PM) – A Riverside Repast. After all that history, it’s time for a relaxing lunch. Grab a table at a riverside spot like The Boat Club, where you can enjoy seasonal dishes while watching the rowers glide by on the River Wear.
Afternoon (2:30 PM) – The Iconic River Walk. This is one of my favourite things to do in Durham. The Riverside Walk is a peaceful path that loops around the wooded peninsula right below the cathedral.
I can never believe how quiet it is! Make sure you walk to Prebends Bridge for that classic, postcard-perfect photo of the cathedral.
Evening (7:00 PM) – Dinner and a Quirky Drink. For dinner, you’re spoilt for choice.
I love the Pan-Asian food at Zen or the incredible gourmet burgers at Tango.
Afterwards, you have to experience the Tin of Sardines. It’s proudly known as Durham’s smallest gin bar, and it’s an absolute gem with over 300 gins on the menu.
The vibe is fantastic. I have a dedicated article all about my visit to The Tin of Sardines.
Day 2: Markets, Museums & Green Escapes
Morning (9:30 AM) – Local Life at the Market. Start your second day with a visit to Durham Indoor Market.
I love the buzz of this place. It’s a historic market hall with over 40 independent traders selling everything from artisan food to second-hand books and local crafts.
Late Morning (11:00 AM) – A Choice of Culture or Nature. Now, you have a choice. For a dose of culture, visit the Oriental Museum, which has fascinating collections from Asia and the Middle East.
Or, for a peaceful escape from the city bustle, discover the diverse global plant collections in my detailed guide to the Durham Botanic Garden.
Lunch (1:00 PM) – A Hidden Gem. For a light lunch, seek out Vennels Cafe. It’s a Durham institution, tucked away in a historic alleyway and famous for its coffee, cakes, and wonderfully cosy atmosphere.
Afternoon (2:30 PM) – Gardens and Grand Views. This afternoon, let’s explore a little further.
First, visit The Old Durham Gardens, a stunning series of themed gardens surrounding a medieval hall that offers a truly peaceful escape.
Afterwards, head up the hill to take in the city views from Wharton Park. It’s a beautifully restored Victorian park with some of the best panoramic views of the entire city skyline.
Evening (7:00 PM) – A Farewell Dinner. For your final dinner, why not try somewhere with a unique atmosphere?
The Cellar Door is tucked away beside the river and serves fantastic modern British food, or for something truly memorable, check out the acclaimed Mexican food at Barrio Comida.
Where to Stay in Durham
For a stylish and central option, I had a beautiful stay at the Indigo Durham. It’s full of its own treats and is the perfect base for exploring everything the city has to offer.
There are plenty of accommodation options in Durham, from cosy bed and breakfasts to chain hotels.
Beyond the City: Exploring County Durham
If you have an extra day, I highly recommend heading out into the surrounding county.
A visit to Beamish, The Living Museum of the North, is an absolute must for the whole family, or you can head to the historical delights of the Bowes Museum. Both are incredible days out that I’ve written about before.
Final Thoughts
Phew! What a weekend. Durham is a truly unique and great city, and even after many visits, I’m still discovering new things. I know I’ll be back again soon.
There is so much more to Durham than you could possibly think!
Further Reading on Durham
Want to dive deeper? Check out my other detailed articles on this fantastic city and its surroundings:
- Accommodation: Hotel Indigo Durham – A Beautiful Stay
- Attractions:
- Unique Experiences: Launderette Sessions, Durham – A Unique Gig Venue
Maybe you could add a visit to Crook Hall and Gardens next time you’re in the area, we are in the centre of Durham City, just a short walk along the river from the Gala Theatre. We look forward to welcoming you!
Hi, yes I have an article to come on Crook Hall 🙂 Loved it there. and will add here on things to do too
I’m from Co Durham so am biased but try the walk along the river from Durham City to shincliffe, about 7km,the wooded hills remind me of pictures of the chocolate hills in the Philippines without the heat! shincliffe is on the main road from Stockton to Durham so has lots of buses back if you don’t want to walk.
Thanks kevan! Sounds amazing, will try that one when next up 🙂