Pen Dinas Hillfort, Aberystwyth: A Walker’s Guide to an Ancient Summit

From the moment you arrive in Aberystwyth, Pen Dinas makes its presence felt. It’s the great hill to the south, crowned with a striking, chimney-like monument that seems to beckon you from across the bay.

The urge to climb it is almost irresistible, a promise of panoramic views and a journey into the past. On a recent trip to the Ceredigion coast, I answered that call, and the experience was more rewarding than I could have imagined.

This guide is born from that visit. I wanted to share everything I learned to help you plan your own adventure—from the best walking routes and practical tips to the millennia of history hidden beneath your feet.

The Essential “Know Before You Go” Guide

To help you plan your visit, here is a quick, scannable guide with all the essential information you’ll need.

The Journey to the Summit: Three Paths to Pen Dinas

There isn’t just one way to the top. Depending on where you start and what you want to see, you can choose from three main paths to the summit.

• Route 1: The Scenic Town Route (Approx. 30 minutes). This is my recommended route for first-time visitors. Starting from Aberystwyth town centre, head over Trefechan Bridge, turn right into Felin-y-Mor Road, and at the end of the road, you’ll find a signposted path. It’s considered the best route for all-round views.
• Route 2: The Main Road Route (Approx. 25 minutes). This path begins opposite the entrance to the Aberystwyth Holiday Village. It can be the muddiest of the trails, so it’s often more enjoyable on the way down than on the way up.
• Route 3: The Local’s Climb (Approx. 15 minutes). If you’re starting from Penparcau, this is the quickest and most direct ascent. A path from Cae Job will get you to the summit in about 15 minutes.

Uncovering Millennia: The Deep History of Pen Dinas

Standing on the summit, you are walking on layers of history that stretch back thousands of years. The hillfort’s correct Welsh name is ‘Dinas Maelor’, which tradition says was the fort of a giant named Maelor Gawr.

A Fort Built in Phases: Archaeologists have discovered that the hillfort was built in several stages.The first fort was constructed on the lower northern summit, protected by an outer ditch and an inner rampart.

Decades later, a new, more heavily defended fort was built on the higher southern summit, featuring huge terraced earthworks. In the final phase, the two forts were connected to enclose the entire hilltop.

Life in the Iron Age: Excavations in the 1930s unearthed fascinating glimpses into daily life here. Finds were sparse but significant, including fragments of pottery from around 100 BC, beads, and loom weights used for weaving.

The circular depressions you can still see in the ground mark where huts once stood.

The Coming of the Romans: The fort was likely abandoned around 74 AD, possibly due to the arrival of the Romans in the area. The only Roman evidence ever found here is a mysterious hoard of 4th-century coins, perhaps left as an offering to a local shrine.

Modern Rediscovery: The story of Pen Dinas is still being written. In 2022, a two-year community project, funded by the National Lottery Heritage Fund and Cadw, began new excavations to learn more about this incredible site, reminding us that it is a living piece of heritage still revealing its secrets.

The Wellington Monument: An Icon on the Horizon

What draws your attention from miles around is the tall, chimney-like monument on the higher summit.

This is the Wellington Monument, an 18-metre-high structure designed to look like an upended cannon.

It was built around 1852, paid for by public subscription, to commemorate the Duke of Wellington’s victory at the Battle of Waterloo.

There’s a wonderful local story that the monument was intended to be even grander, with a statue of Wellington on horseback placed on top. Unfortunately, the funding ran out, and the statue was never added.

The View from the Top: A 360-Degree Panorama

A climb to the top on a pleasant day is incredibly rewarding. The stunning 360-degree view from the summit is breathtaking, shifting from a dramatic seascape to a glimpse of Aberystwyth and the distant mountains.

• West: Sweeping views of Cardigan Bay, where the sea and sky compete to see which has the more attractive shade of blue.
• North: A bird’s-eye view of Aberystwyth town, including the ruins of the Norman castle and Constitution Hill.
• East: The distant, rolling panorama of the Cambrian Mountains.
• South: The confluence where the River Ystwyth and Afon Rheidol meet the sea.

On an exceptionally clear day, the view can stretch all the way to Snowdonia.

A Living Landscape: Pen Dinas as a Nature Reserve

On my visit, I stopped at the gateway to read the noticeboard declaring the hill a designated Local Nature Reserve, a status it has held since 1999.

It is deservedly so. The slopes are covered with honey-scented yellow gorse and purple heather.

The only sounds were the harmonious birdsong and, in the distance, the steam engine of the Vale of Rheidol narrow-gauge railway heading for Devil’s Bridge.

It was very quiet, but on breezy days it is popular with hang-gliders, who share the thermal currents with the magnificent Red Kites.

The cows grazing on the lower summit complete the timeless scene, looking just as they would have in the Iron Age.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Returning to the car, I sighed and vowed to return soon, maybe on a breezy winter day to watch the Red Kites and hang-gliders soaring. I hope this guide inspires you to make your own journey to this majestic place.